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大众餐饮如何演变为城市记忆?火锅业走出短命宿命

2017-06-07 15:35:26   工人日报

通过抱团发展的重庆火锅,实现了从单打独斗的阶段到集群化发展的跨越,实现了由火锅餐饮到多元化产业的历史转变,深入到海内外投融资、文化创意、食品加工、种养殖、商业地产等多行业、产业链完善发展的大产业格局。

然而,同其他形式的饮食相比,火锅的口味和形式都显得较单一,所以当其发展到一定时期后,就会让顾客产生消费疲劳。这种形态决定了火锅行业发展的脆弱性。重庆八旺串串火锅品牌负责人龙晓飞对记者坦言:“经常在外地吃重庆火锅,味完全变了,这些火锅店打着重庆火锅招牌,混淆视听,拉低了重庆火锅格调。”

“火锅亟须在制作工艺、食品安全上加以规范,那些不规范的,与重庆火锅品质、味型背道而驰的,不准再打这块招牌。”重庆火锅协会会长李德建说,重庆火锅需要制定行业标准,这一标准对重庆火锅是保护,对外来企业则是门槛。

中国管理科学院研究员、重庆火锅知名专家刘可则从行业的角度给出了建议,“以国外的很多事实和例子来看,任何行业发展到一定的程度,都要有一个标准化出来。其目的是在给行业制定出一定标准的同时,增加其行业的核心竞争力,形成规范,形成一定的凝聚力,从而为行业的长足发展未雨绸缪。”

李德建坦言,许多消费者热爱火锅美食,却又“喜新厌旧”,因此火锅企业不得不通过借鉴和原料、技术的创新带动火锅品种的创新,创造差异化的产品,以满足消费者个性化需要,防止审美疲劳。

另一方面,消费者对火锅产品稳定的品质非常看重,因此为更好地保证产品质量稳定、规范操作技术和流程,重庆火锅行业正逐步制定火锅烹饪技术标准、产品质量标准、服务标准、安全卫生标准等,通过完善市场准入机制、产品质量安全可追溯体系,引入HACCP管理,令企业出品标准化、规范化的绿色、生态火锅产品,这也是做大做强火锅业的必由之路。

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