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中国菜做加法 日本菜做减法

2017-09-07 09:02:22   中国青年网

◎刘忆斯

不久前去了一趟日本,除了逛书店逛寺庙,对于一个吃货,逛佳肴遍布的美食街,自然也是我的主要生活日常。在大街上,经常能看到“洋食”和“中华料理”的幌子和招牌,洋食自然指的是西餐,中华料理则是源于中国的餐食。被吊起好奇心,吃了一次中华料理中最有名的“天津饭”,谁知只是蟹肉炒蛋盖饭,跟天津并无半毛钱关系。在日本,还是要吃地道的和食。顾名思义,和食就是日本料理了。

今天的和食,基本上是江户时代确定的饮食传统,代表食物包括:寿司(鱼虾饭团)、天妇罗(鱼虾蔬菜面粉制成的油炸食品)、渍物(酱菜),以及由素面、乌冬面和荞麦面组成的日式面条。这几样我当然都吃了(不止一次),有时为了赶路,一个盛着寿司、渍物、天妇罗的便当,更能将几种美食一次性拥有。轻油少盐保持原味,是和食的特点,日本烹饪大师四条隆彦有句名言:中国菜、法国菜是在做加法,而日本菜是做减法。其中之意是中国菜、法国菜在一种食材上不断添加各种食材和佐料,而日本菜则恰恰相反。

我喜欢一边享用美食,一边琢磨这些盘中餐。不喜欢和食的朋友也有,但对其细致的刀功、讲究的摆放、精致的餐具以及风雅的气质,大多数人都会印象统一。我曾饱餐了一顿地道的会席料理,各种菜肴的味道暂且不论,单是每道菜的装饰点缀便已赏心悦目,比如一勺土豆泥点上了一抹红色酱汁,一块腌鲭鱼旁摆着一只青椒,一块豆腐上撒着几粒鲑鱼子和一颗青豆……隐隐觉得,这种饮食文化除了美学上的考虑,似乎还有一种暗示或隐喻。

为了破解这些饮食密码,回国后我便找来一些书读,其中便有徐静波的《和食》。徐先生是沪上著名的日本文化专家,出版了很多研究日本文化、历史的书籍,《和食》是他的旧作《日本饮食文化:历史与现实》修订后再版,读来颇有茅塞顿开之感。除了日本人对本味、视觉的信仰,徐先生还着重谈到“季节感”也是日本厨师和食客孜孜不倦、乐此不疲追求的雅事,而他们在食物外形上的实验:樱花、红叶、柚子、残梅……除了装点,更主要的是突出了餐食中季节的信号,人们可以通过它们产生或春寒料峭或落英缤纷的遐想。

在日本你还能吃到制法、味道不一的各式面条。不过,吃豚肉拉面时,你千万别觉得自己吃的是河豚肉,因为碗中的此豚非彼豚,拉面里的豚骨汤和豚肉,其实就是猪骨汤和猪肉而已。河豚昂贵,怎么可能给每碗拉面都撒上几片呢?我当然是有口福的,在京都与旅日学者靳飞先生重聚,获请吃纸火锅,石棉纸制成的纸火锅在电热器上加热,里面是沸腾的汤汁,等着切成薄片的河豚肉下锅。“河豚可是生鱼片中的佼佼者啊。”靳先生好客,挥箸不停,我盘里一片片河豚肉纷至沓来。

说到河豚,不由得想起阿城先生的《常识与通识》,其中有段写河豚的文字,让我印象深刻:“河豚很鲜美,可是有毒,能置人死命。若到日本,不妨找间餐馆,里面治河豚的厨师一定要是有执照的。我建议你第一次点的时候,点带微毒的,吃的时候极鲜,吃后身体的感觉有些麻麻的。我再建议你此时赶快作诗,可能此前你没有作过诗,而且很多著名诗人都还健在,但是,你现在可以作诗了。”说实话,吃河豚肉时,我是决计想不起什么诗句的,因为美食临头,那是顾也顾不上的了。

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