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老街改造别抹掉情感记忆

2017-08-30 16:26:09   央广网

近期,安徽省安庆市大南门街面临改造,很多老店被要求限期搬离。当地媒体报道称,大南门炒米、鱼圆、牛肉包子等众多“味觉名片”命运未知,很多人问:“老安庆”们的味觉记忆将何去何从?

一座有历史的城市,总有那么几处承载着城市味道、城市记忆的所在。也许它们看起来不够光鲜亮丽,却以其独特的市井气息,与繁华街区的车水马龙、与生活在城市里的人保持着某种默契。安庆的大南门街就是这样一条老街。老百姓随意穿个背心、穿双拖鞋,到此吃份炒米,或者来点鱼圆、牛肉包子,在嘈杂声中边吃边聊,“慢慢悠悠过生活”。如今,改旧造新、消除安全隐患,理由很充分,可对城市味道的呵护却不够。

安庆老百姓对“味觉记忆”可能消失的担忧,让笔者想到湖北武汉的吉庆街。熟悉武汉的人都知道,“过早户部巷,宵夜吉庆街”是最纯正的“汉味生活”。从前,吉庆街的老艺人总是在夜色中穿行。人们随意坐在街边吃大排档,听他们鼓捣琵琶、二胡、笛子、花鼓等传统乐器。前些年,当地决定对吉庆街进行“全方位改造”,改造完成后,面貌一新的街市却再也找不回当年的味道,人们只能失望地离开。实现了街道的整齐划一却丢掉了它的魂,这样的改造本质上是对城市文化记忆的打断。

何止安庆大南门街、武汉吉庆街,全国多少老街都被卷进了城市现代化建设的浪潮中,被改造拆除得找不回原来的味道。多少经营了十几年、几十年的老店,在改造中渐渐消失殆尽?还有多少老街正面临着新一轮的“拆拆拆”?它们能逃脱城市记忆、老街文化被无情打断的命运吗?这让笔者想到前些天看到的一则有关上海古羊路的文章,其标题是:“又一条美食街被拆?消失前再去找一次老上海的记忆。”这样的话语勾起了多少人的伤感。

街道老了必然面临改造的命运,但城市文化、城市味道未必不能保存和延续下来。仔细研究那些消失的地方特色美食、知名老店,会发现它们往往不是消失于“市场的选择”。对城市来说,不能只有看得见的光鲜、摸得着的利益、便于量化的经济增长指标,更需要市井的味道、城市的记忆、百姓的情感。

武汉作家池莉曾悲观地写道:“我觉得吉庆街很可能一去不复返,中国所有的吉庆街都很可能一去不复返。”唯愿作家的悲观只是一种多愁善感,唯愿其他地方在老街改造之前,把民俗文化、城市味道的留存延续放在心上、写进方案里,改造前请出去,改造后请回来。我们相信,只要用心对待,老街还会充满人间烟火味,情感记忆还能得以延续。

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