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打开后厨,让食品安全看得见(人民时评)

2017-08-28 05:16:47   中国青年网

以海底捞事件为契机,经常去“后厨”看看,问一问“初心”,才是明星企业基业长青的根本保证

一度被视为餐饮界标杆的海底捞,近日因食品安全卫生问题被推上了舆论的风口浪尖。目前,北京市食药监局已经要求海底捞总部落实食品安全主体责任,全面进行限期整改,在一个月内对北京各门店实现后厨公开、信息化、可视化。

值得审视的,是这波舆情的转折。随着海底捞的致歉信及处理通报,部分网络舆情从愤怒转为谅解,还有不少网友与自媒体为其“点赞”。诚然,海底捞的问题恐怕非其一家所独有,餐饮服务业在门店、质量、供应链以及卫生管理等方面都面临阶段性难题。这也是大家普遍对食品安全问题抱有担心的原因。对海底捞的宽容,体现着一部分消费者的理解与耐心。

消费者的善意不应被辜负。平心而论,当遭遇食品卫生安全重大事故,面临品牌形象损毁,海底捞的反应是迅速的,道歉也是诚恳的。没有埋头装“鸵鸟”,避免了一场更大的信任危机。然而消费者更关心的是,仅有面对舆情的积极态度,并不足以解决那些“线下”“后厨”的根源性问题。只有真正让消费者看到变化、看到改善,才不负一家明星企业此前辛辛苦苦建立起来的美誉,不至于让顾客们对整个行业食品安全状况的忧虑雪上加霜。

长远来看,企业的整改是实做还是虚做、真改还是遮掩,顾客心里是有杆秤的。对每一个行业、每一家企业而言,消费者利益都应摆在首位。海底捞的发展壮大,得益于鲜明的用户意识。比起行业内少数从业者服务态度不佳、欺客宰客等现象,海底捞的贴心服务可谓消弭了消费者的痛点,其在服务上的一系列创新举措,提升了消费者体验,也是对消费者需求的尊重和满足,一度刷新了行业服务的标高。然而,服务的“面子”再好,产品的“里子”也得过硬;内部的企业文化再温馨,践行起来也得与公共利益、法律法规一致。就餐饮行业来讲,食品卫生安全就是企业安身立命之所在,就是消费者利益之根本。如果无法保证食品卫生安全,就丢掉了根本,服务再好,都可能成为无源之水、无本之木。

海底捞事件,给整个餐饮行业再次敲响了警钟。要看到,新食品安全法“最严谨的标准、最严格的监管、最严厉的处罚、最严肃的问责”的原则,不只是写在纸上;公众的注意力和部门的执法态度,也不会被一时一事的表态牵着鼻子走。每一家餐饮行业都需要以消费者利益为出发点,主动打开后厨,让食品卫生看得见;填补管理漏洞,消除卫生死角,让舌尖安全有保障,方可不负消费者的信任与期待。

当前,各行各业的业态创新、管理创新、模式创新层出不穷,但怎样才能坚守住最根本的出发点,值得深思。强化企业自律是一方面,全社会也需要始终对食品安全保持高压态势,持续追问,刨根问底。这次北京市食药监局要求海底捞各门店实现后厨公开,抓住了监管的根本。失去了透明的管理和全方位的监管,再卖力的服务也可能在一些方面打折扣,声誉再好的企业也可能犯错。以海底捞事件为契机,经常去“后厨”看看,问一问“初心”,恐怕才是企业面对危机的正确方式,也是明星企业基业长青的根本保证。

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