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茶究竟起源于何时?中国出土最早茶具为东汉烧造
2016-01-12 10:34:41 中国新闻网
约与陆羽同时代的韩翃曾代田神玉作《谢茶表》,其中有一联名句称:“吴主礼贤,方闻置茗;晋臣爱客,才有分茶。”(《文苑英华》卷五九四引)前句指吴主孙皓密赐韦曜以茶代酒的故事,后句指晋臣分茶给友人。此乃中国文人常见之礼俗,又称“分甘”或“分贶”等,而有学者竟又与宋代才有的茶艺形式“分茶”混为一谈。唐宋时人仍有将名茶赠给友人称作“分茶”者,如邵雍《击圵集》卷五《谢城中张孙二君惠茶》:“仍携二友所分茶,每到烟岚深处点。”即为明显例证。被誉为“大历十才子”之一的韩翃就主张茶饮始于魏晋。无独有偶,欧阳修亦以为:“茶之见载前史,盖自魏晋以来有之。”《茶经·七之事》凡辑録茶事资料四十五条,其中三十九条为魏晋南北朝时期的茶事,占87%的绝对多数。茶事记载的增多,与茶饮由南向北逐渐推广应是同步的。故陆羽卒后约半个世纪,唐杨晔在《膳夫经·茶录》中写道:“茶,古不闻食之。近晋宋以降,吴人采取其叶煮,是为茗粥。至开元、天宝之间,稍稍有茶;至德、大历遂多;建中以后盛矣。”《膳夫经·茶录》约撰于大中十年(856),作者认为晋宋间吴人还保留着茶叶菜食的习俗,可能是指寻常百姓人家,也许当时茶还是贵族、文士的专享品,犹如“旧时王谢堂前燕”,尚未“飞入寻常百姓家”。他还认为,中唐以后,茶事始盛。此乃颇有见地之论。杨晔是书,罕见前人论及。
在陆羽《茶经》成书以前,关于饼茶的制作及煮饮,仅见一条独家记载,据称出于《广雅》:“荆巴间采茶作饼,既成,以米膏出之。[若饮],先炙令色赤,捣末置瓷器中,以汤浇覆之,用葱、姜、桔子芼之。其饮醒酒,令人不眠。”这段引文,始见于《茶经·七之事》。日本学者布目潮沨教授早在半个世纪前就已指出,此文与张揖《广雅》之文体完全不同,不可能是《广雅》中文字,疑是书名有误。此文亦见宋本《太平御览》卷八六七、《太平寰宇记》卷一九三等,皆引作《广雅》。是否在唐以前还存在另一种同名为《广雅》之书呢?三国时魏国的张揖不可能如此详尽地记载饼茶的制作、煮饮法及其功效,殆无可疑。但是南朝后期乃至隋唐间,随着茗饮的推广,人们对饼茶的认识有可能达到这样的水平。但毕竟某种程度承继了《修文殿御览》资料汇编功能的《太平御览》,完全有可能据同名之《广雅》记录下这条可贵的资料。这条唐以前史料最值得注意者有二:一是茶以“米膏出之”,这是茶米一词最合理的诠释;二是以姜葱等“芼之”,即保持茶菜食的孑遗。可认为是从菜食到饮用的过渡期方式。诚如明人曹学佺《蜀中广记》卷六五所云,这一捣末煮饮饼茶之法,一直流传到明代,“蜀人饮擂茶是其遗制”。上引资料的重要性还反映了魏晋南北朝时从茗粥到茶饮的过渡期,也是中国茶文化史上的孕育、奠基期。
所谓“魏晋风流”,即主张个性的解放和张扬。《世说新语》中的许多故事,堪称其代表。这种“风流”,并非终于东晋,南朝仍一脉相承。茶文化的独特魅力就在这样的人文环境中得以充分展示。正如陈寅恪先生所论,魏晋风流与两宋文化是中国思想文化史上的黄金时代。其先后辉映的基本特征,即为“独立精神,自由思想,批评态度”。发人深思的是:这两个时代堪称茶文化史上的两大转折期,前一个转折以茗饮从王公贵族到士大夫间的流行为特征;后一个转折则以茶饮的精致化、普及化、平民化为主要特征。如果说魏晋是茶饮的发轫期,宋代无疑是其发展的顶峰期。盛行于日本的茶道,正是南宋茶艺东传,经其本土化改造而成。其核心技艺,如代表性茶具茶筅的运用,早在宋徽宗的《大观茶论》中就有高度成熟、出神入化的描绘,这比日本茶道的萌芽期早了100余年。
责任编辑:柯旺 CN044
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