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大众餐饮如何演变为城市记忆?火锅业走出短命宿命

2017-06-07 15:35:26   工人日报

由中国饭店协会评出的全国火锅业最高奖项日前正式公布,重庆火锅企业独占鳌头,揽获了中国十大火锅品牌的4个席位,而在中国十佳火锅连锁企业和中国火锅示范企业评选方面,重庆火锅企业也各自占据了3个席位,远超其他省市。再度用事实证明“中国火锅之都”名不虚传。

重庆火锅协会会长李德建告诉记者,重庆市内火锅店数量已经超过2万家,从业人员上百万,全国的连锁店超过5万家,占据中国火锅市场的三分之二。

据《工人日报》记者调查,几十万重庆人以火锅为生,其中众多是夫妻店、兄妹店。勤劳的火锅人,每天起早贪黑熬底料、挑菜、洗碗、撕毛肚、理鸭肠……太多的从业者,每天就是重复这样的工作。正是这么多人为重庆火锅无怨无悔的付出,让火锅成为重庆美食的代表和城市名片。

火锅业能否走出“短命周期”宿命?

重庆火锅传统的经营模式,都采用单体自营的方式为主。站在重庆街头,这样的小店放眼望去比比皆是。店里的配料秘方属于祖传,自然会有独特的地方。生意,红火虽红火,但仅局限在一城一地,难以做大。

上世纪六七十年代,重庆市内的饭馆很少,“露凝香”的创始人黄世雄从3张灶台做到后来的6家直营店、100多家加盟店、7个食品厂,无形资产达到1.3亿元,成为重庆市最早一批火锅个体户的代表。最豪气的时候,他把半条街都打造成属于“露凝香”的美食城。然而,独霸一方的“露凝香”遭遇内忧外患,2003年一夜崩盘,接着在重庆缓慢消失。

与黄世雄的经历一样,重庆火锅最初只是零星地发展,但是在改革开放后逐步被打造成一个产业,涌现了一批深受市民喜欢的名火锅。从上世纪二三十年代鹿氏夫妇开办的三五火锅,到后来的云龙园、述园、一四一、不醉无归等火锅店,都如流星划过。

以“露凝香”为例,历经数十载发展,1993年就被国家旅游局认定为全国旅游产品定点生产企业;“露凝香”牌火锅底料获国家旅游产品“天马”银奖;1998年被重庆市工商行政管理局评定为首批“著名商标”; 1999年被重庆市人民政府命名为“重庆名火锅”。可仍未逃脱“短命周期”的宿命。

从1997年到2003年,餐饮加盟连锁这种经营模式,在中国还处于发展阶段,能做大做强的企业并不多。而黄世雄却发现了其中的商机,尝试进行连锁加盟。可惜的是,虽然他一度采用了新的形式,但思想却并没有摆脱传统经营模式的桎梏。在店面加盟的方法上,黄世雄采取了不收加盟费的做法:就是说加盟商要想获得“露凝香”的品牌代理,不需要自己掏一分钱,只要能够在总部购买火锅底料,就可以开张营业,成为加盟商。

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