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我爱西安这座城

2017-09-20 08:12:01   央广网

我庆幸这座城在中国的西部,在苍茫的关中平原上,其实只能在中国西部的关中平原上才会有这样的城,我忍不住就唱起关于这个地方的一段民谣:八百里秦川黄土飞扬,三千万人民吼叫秦腔,调一碗黏面喜气洋洋,没有辣子嘟嘟囔囔。

当世界的新型城市愈来愈变成了一堆水泥,我该如何来叙说西安这座城呢?时至今日,气派不倒的,风范犹存的,在全世界的范围内最具古都魅力的,也只有西安了。它的城墙赫然完整。独身站定在护城河上的吊桥板上,仰观那城楼、角楼、女墙垛口,再怯懦的人也要豪情长啸了。大街小巷方正对称,排列有序的四合院砖雕门楼下已经黝黑如铁的花石门墩,让你可以立即坠入了古昔里高头大马驾驶了木制的大车喤喤喤开过来的境界里去。如果有机会收集一下全城的数千个街巷名称:贡院门、书院门、竹笆市、琉璃市、教场门、端履门、炭市街、麦苋街、车巷、油巷……你突然感到历史并不遥远。

男人们崇尚的是黑与白的色调,女人们则喜欢穿大红大绿的衣裳,质朴大方,悲喜分明。他们少以言辞,多以行动;喜欢沉默,善于思考;崇拜的是智慧,鄙夷的是油滑;又整体雄浑,无琐碎甜腻。西安的科技人才云集,产生了众多的全球也著名的数学家、物理学家。你不敢轻视了静坐于酒馆一角独饮的老翁或巷头鸡皮鹤首的老妪,他们说不定就是身怀绝技的奇人异才。清晨的菜市场上,你会见到托着豆腐的人,三个两个地立在那里谈论着国内的新闻。关心国事,放眼全球,似乎对于他们是一种多余,但他们就是有这种古都赋予的秉性。整个西安城,充溢着中国历史的古意,表现的是一种东方的神秘,囫囵囵是一个旧的文物,又鲜活活是一个新的象征。

在我的居室里接待了全中国各地来的客人乃至海外的朋友,我送他们的常常是汉瓦当的一个拓片,秦砖自刻的一方砚台,或是陪他们听一段已无弦索的古琴的无声的韶音。我说,你信步在城里走走吧,钟楼已没钟,晨时你能听见的是天音,鼓楼已没鼓,暮时你能听见的是地声,再倘若你是搞政治的,你往城东区看秦兵马俑,你是搞艺术的,你往城西区看霍去病墓前石雕。我不知疲劳地,一定要带领了客人朋友爬土城墙,指点那城南的大雁塔和曲江池,说,看见那大雁塔吗?那就是一枚印石;看见那曲江池吧,那就是一盒印泥。

记住,历史当然翻开了新的一页,现代的西安当然不仅仅是个保留着过去的城,它有着其他城市所具有的最现代的东西。但是,它区别于别的城市,是无言的上帝把中国文化的大印放置在西安,西安永远是中国文化魂魄所在地了。(节选自贾平凹散文《西安这座城》)

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