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三下西南(15):天外之水黄果树

2017-09-11 11:03:41   中国经济网

2017年9月1日,晴,贵州晴隆24道拐——贵州安顺黄果树瀑布,78公里。

虽然在参观计划外景点二十四道拐的途中耗费了不少时间和体力,但我们还是按照原定计划前往黄果树瀑布景区。

“黄果树瀑布,古称白水河瀑布,亦名‘黄葛墅’瀑布或’黄桷树’瀑布,位于中国贵州省安顺市镇宁布依族苗族自治县,属珠江水系西江干流南盘江支流北盘江支流打帮河的支流可布河下游白水河段水系,为黄果树瀑布群中规模最大的一级瀑布,是世界著名大瀑布之一,以水势浩大著称。瀑布高度为77.8米,其中主瀑高67米;瀑布宽101米,主瀑顶宽83.3米。”

20多年前,笔者在采访之余曾去过黄果树瀑布,记得当时景区现代化建设还处于初级阶段,游客也不是太多。这次重访,却感觉是我们在贵州游览期间,游客最多的景区。摩肩接踵的国内外游客也证明,黄果树瀑布不愧是贵州旅游业的第一号名片。

去黄果树就是观赏瀑布,好在整个景区比较集中,主景区范围不大。要说参观游览方式,无非分两种:年迈体弱或不愿爬山者,基本集中在瀑布对面的观景台;年轻力壮或兴趣盎然者,也可从两侧登山观光游玩。

现在观光游览黄果树大瀑布,最省力的方式是乘坐上下两层、总长约170米、提升高度80余米的大滚梯。下电梯后离中心景点也就二、三百米平路的距离,这对于年老体弱的游客来说,倒也轻松了许多。

贵州今年雨水多,9月初的大瀑布正值丰水期,巨量的河水在宽约100米的横面、似千百条银龙从约90米高的山顶上俯冲下来,水花飞溅、势不可挡,响声隆隆、地动山摇。

我站在离瀑布约150米的观景台上,心与大地同颤,能明显感到大瀑布的霸气与任性。这等气吞山河的景色,不由让人想起李白脍炙人口的《望庐山瀑布》:“日照香炉生紫烟,遥看瀑布挂前川。飞流直下三千尺,疑是银河落九天。”

观景台上,聚集着成百上千的国内外游客,或在惊呼、或在感叹、或驻足欣赏,或快意拍照......

除瀑布外,景区内溪水潺潺、植被浓密、凉爽宜人,身在其中,轻松愉悦。

当我面对壮观景色诚惶诚恐之时,身后传来一对老夫妇为盖过瀑布声的大声对话:

“老头子,走了啊,还莫看够?”

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