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夏日里的野果

2017-08-24 07:27:35   中国青年网

李星涛

夏日里,野果长得正好,常常馋得我们几乎嘴里都能伸出手来。

最好吃的要数野小瓜。野小瓜长在玉米地里,个头大似儿拳,呈花觚状,瓜皮金黄打底,青黑描纹,浑身散发着一股尖锐的香气。

野小瓜较为珍稀,往往五六亩大的豆田里只能找到一颗。野瓜的果肉外层淡青爽脆,里层红润粉面。瓜瓤是新鲜的橘红色,瓜心内壁被瓜瓤熏染成一片美丽的朝霞,让人看着不忍下口。瓜子比常见的小瓜瓜子要小,但仁儿要比小瓜厚实。每采摘到一枚野瓜,我们总是大呼小叫的,舍不得立刻吃掉,而是带回家放在堂屋里,让金黄的瓜香很富有成就感地弥漫全屋。

野瓜系列中,最常见的要数马泡。马泡浑身滚圆,最大的直径只有两厘米。有深绿色的,有浅黄色的,有深绿底色上带黑色斑点的……马泡皮薄汁多,甜中略带微酸,味足。我们常说马泡是西瓜的重孙子,籽瓜的孙子,野小瓜的儿子。

马泡的藤蔓状如小瓜,花朵金黄,形似苘花。与它的曾祖父、祖父、父亲一样,马泡的叶儿也呈五角形状,叶表有三道白色的叶脉,藤蔓上长满了肉肉的刺,一旦拉到胳臂,马上就会凸起一道醒目的红印儿。

马泡和小野瓜成熟的时间大致相当。深绿色的马泡是可以揭掉表皮的,里面的果肉面面的,有些香,又有些甜。黄色的马泡果皮果肉始终是相连的,即便熟透了,也是如此。黄马泡极香,那香气单纯干净,直逼鼻孔,久而不散。黄马泡不面,脆生生的,吃过以后,后尾还上扬着一缕淡淡的辣香。无论是绿马泡还是黄马泡,它们的瓜瓤都较少,满肚都是瓜子。其籽粒又特别像芝麻,小小的,白白的,挨挨挤挤地住在一座圆圆的房子里。一颗马泡常常可以掏出十二三粒瓜子。

没有成熟的马泡很硬,极苦。那苦太尖利,带着一种直达深处的锋利。到现在我也不明白,那形容小极小极的马泡,怎么会像是夏季天空中吊着的一袋雨水,一旦“哗”地打开,苦液立刻就会奔涌而出,宛如河走沙滩,转瞬之间就浸润透了舌头上的每一个味蕾,并让其变成和自己相似的肉身,久久泊在口腔里,把润过的皮肤揉皱,然后慢慢变麻,变苦,让你久久张不开嘴来。

“揉不动西瓜揉马泡”这是流行在江淮一带的方言,意思是讽刺一个人欺软怕硬。无事的时候,我们常摘下一颗半生不熟的马泡,轻轻在手里揉搓。初时,马泡只有点淡香,后来越揉越香。最终,马泡变得几乎透明,那浓浓的醇香味简直可以与野小瓜相媲美,就连我们的一双双小手也开始散发出香气。

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