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探访北京同仁堂阿胶生产基地:一张驴皮的出胶之旅

2016-09-06 18:53:12   千龙网

泡洗——

古今结合效果好驴皮浸泡72小时

步入一尘不染的生产区域,工厂负责生产的副总经理杨冀告诉千龙网记者,从驴皮到阿胶一般要经过原料、切皮、泡皮、洗皮、提取、浓缩、出胶、凝胶、切胶、晾胶、内包、外包等十几道工序,耗时约3个月。

千龙网记者在车间内看到,合格的干燥原料皮被工人送入机器,出来的驴皮被切成一定规格的小块,放入饮用水中浸泡72个小时以去除毛皮上的油脂等杂质。同仁堂摒弃了传统的手工操作,采用洗皮罐,通过机器不断搅动,能够去掉附着在驴皮表面的泥沙。据现场的工人介绍,使用洗皮罐洗过的驴皮,比手工操作效果会更好、杂质会更少。

此外,按照同仁堂的传承规定,泡洗驴皮必须每隔八小时换一次水,这样才可以避免驴皮变质。泡好的皮块还要进行焯皮,以便进一步去除杂质。

熬煮——

宁舍产量不牺牲品质师傅带徒弟传承传统技艺

泡洗好驴皮之后,接下来就可以进入阿胶制作过程中最重要的一道工序——煮皮。据介绍,煮皮的目的是将驴皮中的蛋白质水解成便于吸收的氨基酸和蛋白肽,得到胶液,之后驴皮就可以弃掉了。其原理类似于煎药时,把药汤留下,药渣丢掉。

在煮皮环节,同仁堂没有使用一些阿胶厂家普遍使用的高压煮皮装置,而是依然采用古法——常压煮皮。但常压煮皮有个弊端——出胶率低,但益处在于这种方法能避免驴皮毛囊中的杂质在高压煮制的过程中,融化在胶液里,确保阿胶杂质更少。

据杨冀介绍,胶液熬制到最后时重中之重的环节,就是观察胶液的粘稠度。这一步同仁堂坚持靠人工来完成。因为合格的胶液要粘稠度适中,多一分太稠,少一分则稀。用老师傅的话来说,如果胶能挂住,而且像面旗子一样往下坠,就说明胶收得恰到好处。

“这个环节机器是没法把控的,只能靠有经验的老师傅。”杨冀说老师傅用桨将胶液挑起,观察“挂旗”的状态,就能判断出这胶熬得火候到不到了。多年来,这项传统技艺在同仁堂至今仍得以代代传承下来。北京同仁堂采取师傅带徒弟的方式,有二三十年经验的老师傅才能带徒弟,徒弟到能够独立看锅,至少得跟师傅学习两三年以上。

出胶——

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