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茶究竟起源于何时?中国出土最早茶具为东汉烧造
2016-01-12 10:34:41 中国新闻网
宋代茶文化的鼎盛,是毋庸置疑的。文学是生活的真实写照。茶诗的盛衰就颇能说明问题。盛唐前期的玄宗开元末之前,很少有茶诗,李白、杜甫等天才诗人仅有茶诗寥寥数首;唐中期,即元和末以前,茶诗大增;唐后期即穆宗至唐亡,茶诗盛行;见于《全唐诗》者55人,存茶诗233首。宋人茶诗则数以万计,文士几无人无之,陆游一人就有茶诗320余首之多。黄庭坚又有茶词数十首,是历朝写茶词最多也最好的一位。宋人诗词反映茶事生活面的深广度远胜唐人,脍炙人口的名作也远多于唐人。这与中国茶文化莫盛于宋的状况是完全吻合的。哲理化、艺术化、精致化的茶艺、茶俗、茶礼、茶道以及文士和民众的丰富多彩的茶事实践,为宋代文人提供了纵横驰骋的广阔天地,成为传世杰作成批涌现的丰富源泉。
明清:文士的闲适化和民间的普及化
朱元璋出身贫寒,发迹前备尝民间疾苦。登基后,即诏令罢贡龙凤团饼茶,只贡少量茶芽,从此开创了茶文化史上叶茶、散茶冲泡烹饮的新时代。因其简便易行,此法一直沿袭至今。明人重视贮藏置顿之法,无论在茶品审评、采摘炒焙、择泉煮水、火候汤候、烹点饮啜、品饮时宜禁忌及人文环境等方面均有与宋元不同之处,即已从烹饮末茶为主过渡到以啜饮散、叶茶为主。以苏州为中心的长江三角洲六府成为新的名茶产地,茶人茶侣亦群聚于此,把文人茶推向极致,成为领导潮流的新的茶艺中心。与此同时,江西、福建等地也有一批文士嗜茶成习,以喻政、徐为代表的茶人在探求茶艺的同时,还汇刻《茶书》。这是我国历史上最早的茶书丛刊,所收茶书多达数十种,为总结唐至明代文人茶的茶艺、茶道,推进我国茶文化的发展有着不可磨灭的贡献。同时,在明人的别集中,还有内容丰富的茶诗文,充分展示了在追求优雅闲适生活方式的明代士大夫心中,饮茶成了不可或缺的必修之课。正如陆绍珩总结的那样:“幽人清课,讵但啜茗焚香。”由退休官僚、文人隐士、书画与赏鉴名家及茶商为主体构成的茶人集团,其生活方式无非就是:“明窗之下,罗列图史琴尊以自娱。有兴则泛小舟,吟啸览古于江水之间。渚茶野酿,足以消忧;蒪鲈稻蟹,足以适口。又多高僧隐士,佛庙绝胜。家有园林,珍花奇石,曲沼高台,鱼鸟留连,不觉日暮。”烹茗为这种优雅精致的社会生活方式注入了活力。
自陆羽《茶经》以来,对器具、泉水的讲求代代相传。有“天下第二泉”之誉的惠泉,自相传陆羽品泉以来即长盛不衰。无锡惠山泉长达一千余年的盛名,充分证明茶、泉、器具相得益彰,缺一不可,共同构成茶艺的三要素。茶器具则各代各具特色。陆羽《茶经》所述之二十四具,乃日常用品;法门寺出土的皇家茶具之精美,令今人叹为奇观。宋代极重建盏斗器及长沙白金茶具等,又发明了茶艺的核心器具——茶筅,其成为日本茶道中首要茶具。甚至我国各个时代对茶具的颜色也有不同要求。如唐代崇尚绿茶,选用茶具以越窑、岳窑为上,因其色青,可益茶色。而宋代尚白茶,则以建盏黑瓷为宗,亦以其“咬盏”分明,宜于斗茶。当时的一种兔毫盏,尤集万千宠爱于一身,后来流传到日本,被称为“天目碗”,今已是“国宝”级文物。明初王宠家藏茶鼎,与供春紫砂壶、惠山竹炉、宣窑茶具齐名。竹炉最能体现返璞归真的茶艺思想,因而深得明代南方茶人的喜爱,诗酬吟咏,历久未衰,绵延明清两代近五百年尚余音缭绕,其盛况可见清吴钺、刘继增辑录《竹炉图咏》,堪称明清的代表性茶具之一。茶文化发展的鼎盛期应在宋代,清陆廷灿《续茶经》等书中所搜辑的宋代茶事数据最多,即为明显例证。在《全宋文》《全宋诗》《全宋词》中收集的宋代涉茶诗文词赋中尤有充分体现。笔者数十年致力于爬梳搜辑,已近百万余言,这仍将是有待继续整理的珍贵文化遗产。
责任编辑:柯旺 CN044
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