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三下西南(11):两游抚仙湖 饱啖铜锅鱼

2017-09-04 14:20:57   中国经济网

玩了一天,朋友带我们走进一家铜锅鱼店。虽说抚仙湖传统美食抗浪鱼早就难觅踪迹,但据朋友介绍,这里最常见的铜锅鱼食材大青鱼,好吃得很。

我也算是垂钓爱好者,以前钓鱼多喜鲫鱼草鱼,鲤鱼青鱼白鲢一般都不入眼。居然这里最好吃的鱼之一是青鱼,我心存疑惑。

我们进的这家饭馆名叫:“老铜锅青鱼庄”,屋里屋外有七八张桌子。云南许多农家乐式的饭馆多是全木的矮桌子矮凳子,这让我想起了一句陕西话:“他大舅他二舅都是他舅,高桌子低板凳都是木头”。

客人一入座,服务员就送上一壶香茶。朋友点了一个铜锅鱼、一个酸腌菜炒藕片、一个清炒南瓜尖、一个炸南瓜花,主食是铜锅饭。

不一会,菜肴都上了桌,好奇的我们先拍照,再下箸逐一品尝。

几个具有云南特色的小菜就不多说了,农家菜味道好,关键是那一铜锅青鱼让我好奇。

只见一个大铜锅中,汤水清澈,上面漂着几片生姜、几根大葱和香菜,用汤勺一搅,底部泛起大块大块雪白的青鱼肉。夹一块放入口中咀嚼,喔唷,扎实不错:肉质细嫩脆甜,鱼香味浓,鱼头鱼尾毫无土腥味,清清的鱼汤鲜美可人,实在是清炖鱼中的佳品。除了原汁原味吃法外,还有一种吃法,那就是将这家鱼店秘制的辣椒拌料放入小碗中,再舀一勺鱼汤稀释搅匀,然后将鱼肉“打蘸水”吃,微辣中诸味综合,也是好吃。

一是一路游玩泡汤过来委实饥肠辘辘,二来这铜锅鱼名不虚传,我们也顾不得斯文讲究,大口吃鱼肉,大口喝鱼汤。期间再来一筷子藕片或南瓜尖,感觉实在是美得很。不一会,我们风卷残云,一锅4斤的大青鱼叫我们吃得一干二净,我还顺了三碗鱼汤。

汤饱鱼足后,我特地请教了赵姓老板。据他说,他们家的铜锅鱼店开了20多年,生意好得刹不住,湖西岸还有一家分店,铺面比这个大好几倍(我一下子想到那些与我们无异的外地“憨包”,玩和吃是旅游的两大乐趣)。他说,抚仙湖里的鱼都是铜锅鱼的好食材,抗浪鱼早就成了稀罕物,现在饭馆常备的有黄辣丁、鲫鱼、鲤鱼、花鲢等,但都没有青鱼口感好味道香。就算青鱼也分两种,水深50米以上的,个头大但卖不起价,就像我们吃的这种,每公斤(云南地界都论公斤)80元。50米水深以下的,个头小味道好,价格每公斤200元。他还说:“除了抗浪鱼,抚仙湖里最好吃的就数菠萝鱼了,不贵,每公斤800元。“

我一听这话,刚才聚集在口腔中的液体一下子就咽了下去:“这是吃鱼呢还是吃黄金呢?”

回程路上饱嗝不停的我在想,内地口感一般的青鱼在抚仙湖能变身如此美味,除了当地质朴的烹饪方法、那碗秘制辣椒拌料和那口铜锅等因素外,抚仙湖无与伦比的水质当是最大的魔术师。

可见,尊重自然,保护生态,才是人类生存、人民生活质量不断提高的王道。

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