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“老莫”:一个时代的集体记忆

2017-05-21 09:21:13   北京日报

到“世界窗口”吃西餐

1950年代初,百废待兴的中国方方面面向“苏联老大哥”学习。作为全国政治文化中心,北京出现了很多风格浓郁的“苏式建筑”,代表作当属位于西直门外大街的北京展览馆(原名苏联展览馆,1958年更名)。

那会儿,说起新中国怎么建设,流行这样的口号:“苏联的今天就是我们的明天”,除了描述中“楼上楼下,电灯电话”的发展愿景外,每个中国人都想亲眼看看“我们的明天什么样”。1953年10月,气势恢宏的北京展览馆工程动工,定位为“举办苏联各领域建设成果展览会,帮助我们学习先进经验”。带着尖塔和红星的北展建筑群由苏联专家设计,包括工业馆、农业馆、文化馆、剧场、电影院,以及作为招待宾客配套设施的莫斯科餐厅。

1954年9月,北京展览馆竣工,10月举办苏联经济及文化建设成就展。展会上,从采煤机、拖拉机、收割机,到卡车、轿车、火车机车,无不让处于经济技术落后阶段的国人眼界大开。而令大家深感震撼的还有同时开业的,巨大而气派的“老莫”。

本报报道这样记录“老莫”:“大餐厅墙上挂着巨幅克里姆林宫油画,油画前有绿色的喷泉。餐厅四壁是嫩绿色大理石,明亮的大玻璃长窗上,垂着白色乔其纱和银灰色天鹅绒的窗帘。餐厅顶上是松枝、松果和雪花组成的石膏花饰。厅中间四根柱子上,包着铜片攒成的生气勃勃的鸟兽。”“这儿的厨房设备,差不多都是电气化的。有七个大型冰箱,两座大型电灶,还有煮咖啡、烤点心、炸油的各种电炉。厨房每层设有电动运送机,迅速把点心和菜肴送出去。”当时“老莫”所用的全部餐具,除瓷器由景德镇烧制外,全部由苏联供给,玻璃杯、水晶杯就有一万多件。(1954年10月7日,《北京日报》1版《在莫斯科餐厅里》)

刚开业时的“老莫”不直接对外,主要服务苏联援华专家、驻华官员和留学归来的知识分子,还印制了一批“苏联展览馆莫斯科餐厅收据”发给各单位,由内部组织分配,拿到这张“入场券”的人再自己到店交钱就餐。一客份饭的价格分旧币一万、一万二、一万五和二万元(旧币一万元相当于新币1元)四种,包含汤、冷盘、主菜、面包、咖啡和冰淇淋。虽然1950年代普通北京人的工资只有四五十元,但谁也不愿意放弃这“见世面”“开洋荤”的机会,排队的长龙在高大的餐厅外绕了几个回形圈。后来“老莫”逐渐对外开放,但价格和档次摆在那儿,老百姓去一回“老莫”依然了不得,“恨不得半年都说道说道!”

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