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北京北海公园仿膳饭庄迁新址 因保护古建筑

2016-04-21 02:48:26    新京报

原标题:为保护古建筑 北海仿膳饭庄迁新址

昨日,北海公园,北海北岸仿膳饭庄新址,工作人员正在搬运物品,门上挂着溥杰题的“仿膳饭庄”牌匾。新京报记者 薛珺 摄

新京报讯 (记者信娜)北海公园的仿膳饭庄搬家了!根据饭庄外的通知,仿膳饭庄将迁至北海公园北岸,期间暂停营业,预计5月下旬重张营业。

  老仿膳搬至公园北岸

琼岛上,老仿膳饭庄热热闹闹,但并非食客满堂。昨日下午约5时,岸边三四辆搬家车静待。工作人员用小推车将厨房内物品及办公用品“护送”上车,随后,车辆向新址驶去。

新址位于北海公园北岸。其外仍围挡环绕,各两门,现场装修声不绝于耳,伴着烟尘一同飘出。记者看到,落款为老舍的牌匾静立中央,一侧为溥杰所写的“仿膳饭庄”。

据搬家公司一位保安介绍,新饭庄仍未装修完,目前,桌椅部分已基本搬完,还剩下厨房用品等。

搬家为保护古建筑

为什么要搬走?一位相关人士曾表示,由于仿膳饭庄目前的经营场所处于古建筑群中,房屋架构不适合经营餐饮,出于对古建筑的保护,因此决定搬离。

北海公园相关负责人表示,未来,公园将在腾退后的漪澜堂景区推出北海及漪澜堂历史文化展,尽快向游人开放。

她说,下一步将对建筑的文物保护进行专家论证,具体方案正在有序推进中。“将逐步恢复漪澜堂等古建筑的历史原貌”。

  ■ 解释

  漪澜堂

漪澜堂景区建于乾隆三十六年(1771年),是仿照镇江金山寺所建造。景区内包括漪澜堂、碧照楼、道宁斋、远帆阁、晴栏花韵、戏台等院落。

漪澜堂为乾隆帝读书之处,也常在此赐宴;道宁斋为清代皇帝与御用文人吟诗咏文之地;远帆阁、碧照楼为登高赏景之所;晴栏花韵为看戏房。1959年在周恩来总理的指示下,仿膳饭庄搬至漪澜堂。

  ■ 揭秘

  仿膳饭庄的味道如何炼成?

煮豌豆必须用大铜锅,烤烧饼大师傅掌握火候

“仿膳”意味专门仿照御膳房制作方法,经营风味菜肴及面点小吃的地方。自然少不了美味,既包括满汉全席等宫廷盛宴,还有豌豆黄、肉末烧饼等宫廷小吃。

据一位曾在仿膳饭庄实习的工作人员描述,仿膳的宫廷小吃制作起来很讲究,比如,煮豌豆必须用大铜锅,烤每盘烧饼都是由大师傅亲自在旁“蹲守”,掌握火候。

此外,他介绍,仿膳的后厨分为“红案”和“白案”,另外还有做烤烧饼和生鲜的地方。“红案”就是炒菜的地儿,“白案”包含冷点和饺子等热点。

宫廷小吃到底是如何做出来的?该工作人员介绍,芸豆卷是慈禧太后“引进”宫的。芸豆蒸完后在滤网上过一遍筛,再用一根木棍上端一点点擀成细面。

另一种肉末烧饼则需先在里面包上死面团,按扁,蘸上芝麻,再放在火盆上头烤,从而达到外焦里嫩的效果。他说,烤的时候还需不断变换距离角度和火候。

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