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家常“黄小厨”:黄磊年夜饭里的家乡味道
2016-03-10 09:07:52 三联生活周刊 陈晓
真正的家常菜高手,不但会钻研技艺,更懂得利用食材。汪曾祺招待台湾客陈怡真时,知道台湾只有白萝卜,就专选北京才有的小红萝卜。因为“做菜看对象,要做客人没有吃过的,才觉新鲜。北京小水萝卜一年里只有几天最好。早几天,萝卜没长好,少水分,发艮,且有辣味,不甜;过了这几天,又长过了糠。陈怡真运气好,正赶上小萝卜最好吃的时候。她吃了,赞不绝口”。据说一次文人老友聚会,王世襄先生拎一捆霜降之后、上冻之前从地里起出来的大京葱,加上海米焖,一道焖葱就盖过了席间其他菜,用的都是食材的巧劲儿。
每种食材最好的味道,都藏在最适合它的时令季节中。如今科技似乎已经消灭了季节的概念,菜场随时都有五颜六色的食材,颇有无论何时何地,都可予取予求的富足感。但真正懂做饭的人仍会去细细分辨适合食物的节气,了解食物与时间、风土之间的最佳联系。采访时,黄磊就很认真地和记者讨论,质地不同的矿盐会如何影响食物的味道,潮湿地域的阳光和水汽又如何共同作用于一段香肠的口感,让人感受到他对食物没有止境的、真实的好奇心。他在自己的书里这么解释“做饭”这件看起来再简单不过的事情:“做饭真的需要高智商。做饭里面除了常识和经验,你还需要创新和理解,更为重要的是你要学习爱与美。起码得有些耐心和求知欲。”
年夜饭
如果说家庭是一个以食物为纽带、家人相互看顾的场所,年夜饭则是以食物之名,举行的一个有关家庭的仪式。所有家庭之外的事情都可以停下来,甚至时间也停下来。人们心安理得地待在家里,把所有的精力和时间都投入到食物的制作上,心无旁骛,不厌其烦,然后再围坐在一起,吃掉这些食物。在越早的从前,人们就越庄重地执行这个仪式。
黄小立记得的,小时候一到过年,家家户户就会兴起一个蒸馒头、蒸年糕的高潮。“馒头是带馅儿的,有豆沙馅儿的、萝卜丝馅儿的、雪里蕻咸菜馅儿的。在我印象中好像肉的不多。因为过去没有冰箱,南方也不是很冷,做肉馅儿的放时间长了容易坏。做好的馒头放在一个大水缸里,搁院子里,每天早上吃一点。因为南方潮湿,馒头上有时候会长霉点。但也没关系,可以拿干净的抹布擦干净,再去蒸一下,能吃十天八天。”
做完馒头还要做年糕。“年糕就是把糯米放进木头格子里蒸,蒸了以后年糕跟砖头一样,一条一条的,上面还有糯米粉和石红和出来的红绳,特别好看。年糕蒸完晾干后,同样也放在大的水缸里,也是十天半个月都没有问题。年糕时间长了以后,也会长一些霉点,不仅可以用抹布擦,还可以蘸着水洗。弄干净之后,再切成片蒸着吃。我们家那儿在主食方面就这个特点最有年味儿,一到过年的时候,就会兴起一个蒸馒头、蒸年糕的高潮。”
责任编辑:刘畅 CC002
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