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在西方,卡里莫夫的形象似乎总是和独裁统治、个人崇拜联系在一起,这种说法不免有失偏颇。诚然,乌兹别克斯坦独立后卡里莫夫就一直掌握着最高权力,然而要说搞个人崇拜,那么比起中亚邻国某些为自己竖了一万多座雕像的领导人,某些将自己的著作抬到和《古兰经》同一高度的领导人,某些用自己的名字命名城市、村庄的领导人,某些将自己的生日和自己第一次当选总统的日子设立为法定节假日的领导人,某些为自己赋予国父封号的领导人,某些将国内的列宁街统统改名为共和国第一任总统街的领导人,某些十年写了三十多本小说、诗集、草药学、音乐学、纺织学专著供全国人民学习膜拜的领导人,某些在首都为自己建造生祠博物馆的领导人,某些天天在电视上表演赛马、打碟、吉他弹唱的领导人……噢,比起他们来,卡里莫夫先生真可以称得上是中亚细亚草原上一座虚怀若谷、低调为人、淡泊名利的丰碑。
与某些中亚邻国在全国各地挂满总统玉照、贴满总统语录不同,乌兹别克斯坦街头的宣传画似乎更爱营造出一种生活美好幸福的整体氛围:历史悠久(布哈拉、撒马尔罕等地古建筑的剪辑拼贴、帖木儿和纳瓦伊的肖像)、风景优美(雪山、草原等等)、物产丰盛(棉花、小麦、黄金)、四代同堂多子多孙的幸福家庭围坐着谈笑风生(母亲手里一定要抱着个吃奶的孩子)、大学生认真严肃地捧着宪法研读、体育健儿拿了奥运奖牌、天上飞着(被Skytrax评为世界第四差的)乌兹别克斯坦航空的飞机、地上跑着(西班牙人造的)阿甫剌昔牙卜号高速火车……只有在巨幅群像中一个不起眼小角落里,会有一个戴老花眼镜、精神矍铄的长者站在联合国的演讲台前,与远处的帖木儿遥相呼应,悄悄地提醒着你:过上如今的幸福生活,难道不应该感谢一下这位长者吗?
每年的世界幸福指数排名中,乌兹别克斯坦这个不富裕的国家却总能在独联体中居首,这想必不是没有道理的。尽管旅行中遇到了种种让人哭笑不得的荒谬经历,但乌兹别克斯坦人给我留下的总体印象仍是善良、质朴,有时甚至显得有些天真。俄罗斯人每每去了白俄罗斯回来,总会感叹说:唉,就像是在苏联时代。他们若是去乌兹别克斯坦,多半也会如此作想。
在去费尔干纳盆地重镇安集延前,总以为我能在这个十年前曾遭无情镇压的城市里看到的,只会是荷枪实弹的军警、心中尽是不满和仇恨的民众、大胡子与黑罩袍。然而实际上这里却和乌兹别克斯坦其他城市无甚区别,或许由于不是旅游城市,外国游客的到来反而更让当地人兴奋,就连街边的瓜贩都强送给我一个哈密瓜。一提到政治,安集延的司机大叔就兴奋起来:“世界上所有国家都有穷人有富人,……但我们乌兹别克斯坦不一样,我们不分穷人和富人,所有人都一样!”“每到收棉季节,我们的市长就带着全家老小一起下田摘棉花,世界上哪个国家的市长能这样!”“城郊这些小别墅,随便你是谁,只要给政府写申请,你就可以住进去,世界上哪个国家能这样!”
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