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作为后苏联空间的乌兹别克斯坦

2016-11-13 13:00:48   

错综复杂的边境不仅恶化了三国互相间的关系,也为各国内部管理带来极大的不便。乌兹别克斯坦东西之间、吉尔吉斯斯坦和塔吉克斯坦南北之间都被高山阻断,仅靠狭窄的翻山路勉强连接,若不想翻山,那么塔吉克斯坦要绕道乌兹别克斯坦,吉尔吉斯斯坦则要绕道哈萨克斯坦和乌兹别克斯坦,乌兹别克斯坦则必须绕道塔吉克斯坦。三国政府都急着想修通国内铁路,而这回又是国力最强大的乌兹别克斯坦抢得先机:今年6月与中国合作建设的卡姆奇克(Kamchiq)隧道通车后,首都塔什干与费尔干纳盆地之间的铁路终于贯通了。当地的朋友兴奋地告诉我:谢谢中国,这下全世界终于可以忘记塔吉克斯坦了!

苏联解体后,许多加盟共和国开始用拉丁字母替代西里尔字母书写母语,口头上说是为了国际化,其实主要还是要去俄化。在这些进行字母改革的国家中,阿塞拜疆和摩尔多瓦因为有现成的例子(土耳其语、罗马尼亚语)可供模仿,所以没有遇到太大的阻碍,算是成功的榜样,而乌兹别克斯坦却不幸处在另一边。

从塔什干机场入境后需填写报关单,机场有三种语言的报关单供选择:拉丁字乌兹别克语、俄语和英语。地上却满是被丢弃的拉丁字乌兹别克语报关单,原来许多劳工完全不会读写用拉丁字书写的母语,拿起表格后抱怨说上面是英语,便随手一扔去找俄语表格。

新正字法不得民心,当局又不舍得放弃,于是变成了彻底的鸡肋。在各地街头都出现了一种古怪的多语氛围:商店门面和对外广告全都写着拉丁字,大概是官方要求,可一走进商店内,价目、说明、条款上就都只能看见西里尔文。最“精分”的要数在火车上读到的一张乌铁报纸,报纸大标题是拉丁字,正文全都是西里尔字,到国际新闻版就干脆用俄语,大概是从老大哥的报纸上直接剪裁下来,连翻译的工夫都省了。

因为飞机是凌晨到,又没有订当晚的旅馆,因此想在机场将就睡一个晚上。谁知刚在到达大厅里仅有的长椅上坐下,保安就过来赶人:“机场打烊了,这里不是想睡就睡的。”问机场内有无休息室或旅馆,答曰:“这里不是莫斯科,塔什干是座小城市,东西不是要有就有的。”

悻悻而出,发现机场外被铁栏杆围了起来,没有机票的人一律不得进入候机楼,接机者混合着恼人的黑车司机一股脑挤在铁栅栏外的一扇小门旁。后来去坐火车,发现火车站也是这般严防死守的格局。机场、车站完全禁止非乘车人员进入,也算是一道奇观了。

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