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神秘的纳西民族村:红白相间盐田壮观震撼(组图)

2016-04-18 16:37:32   雪域青稞

  “而现在,政策好了,纳西人又格外重视教育,脑子灵活,很多人家都经营起了商店、藏家乐,或者出去打工,这可不是单纯出卖劳力,大多都是技术工,报酬很丰厚。因此,按国家设定的人均不足2300元的标准来看,我们村是没有贫困户的,但是按村里自己的贫困标准,各家收入差距还不小,必须扶持帮助。”村里老支书贡秋扎西略有自豪又充满信心的介绍说。

  风俗信仰

  下盐井村地处滇藏之交,乍一看纳西人在风俗和信仰方面与当地的藏族人无异,“我们信仰的是藏传佛教,平时说的是藏语。不过,东巴语我们还是会说些,只是已经不会写了。”年轻的邓培略带羞涩的说道。

图为东巴象形文字

  现在盐井纳西人保存的最隆重的习俗就是祭天仪式,藏语里叫做“纳帕”,“帕”在藏语里意为猪。纳西族的传说是,在远古时代天地结合处最先出现了纳西民族的祖先,因此,他们自认为是最早出现在世界上的人类,对上天深怀畏服之心,要在“纳帕节”这天献祭特供的公猪。按照传统风俗,全村分为三组,每户家庭轮流主持举行祭天仪式,并由主办户准备这头纯黑色的公猪,当然其他组员也有义务提供猪粮,以保障公猪长得膘肥体壮。

  “纳帕节”一般在藏历新年的初五或初八举行,在此前一天每小组会选出“拉带”来主办户家里准备饭菜、在主办户门前用石膏涂出猪的图形等其他前期工作。傍晚时分,其他成员也陆续聚集在主办户家中举行“贝增”仪式。先是给预备献祭的公猪喂酒,使其麻醉。再向祭祀品祷告,祈求来年风调雨顺、幸福平安。回屋后,由纳西老人首先向灶神磕三次头,然后祈祷家庭平安、幸福、吉祥。第二天凌晨两三点,一般约鸡鸣为号,人们就扛起猪往祭祀台赶去。先由屠夫将猪宰杀,再用火烤去毛,但生火的木材很讲究,是用一种叫“蹦布斯”的植物。然后是“煨桑”,从猪的内脏中取出肝、肺、肩胛骨,及少许猪血混米放入松柏树叶燃就的火中。此时,纳西老人开始口念东巴经文郑重向上天祷告,祈求保佑大地万物的和谐、安康及幸福。念完经后,纳西老东巴就能从猪的脾脏及肩胛骨的形状和完损情况判断出今年的灾难、收成、忌日等征兆。

  仪式结束后,人们围坐在一起吃肉、喝酒,开始联欢,最后人们把猪肉均等分配给所在组的成员户,然后骑着马高喊着“窝增达”漫跑在村中的大街小巷。“拉带”和亲朋好友则会聚在主办户的家中载歌载舞庆祝节日,一般要持续两三天才会结束。此外,盐井村纳西人重要活动还有杀猪宴。一般在藏历的八九月份农忙结束后,杀猪宴请亲朋好友,一则是庆祝丰年,二来也是联络友谊,增进感情的重要方式。听着这些从遥远的历史深处走来的神秘仪式和动人的盛会,青稞君一行立即陶醉了,只好深叹来不逢时,无法亲自体验一番。

  诚然,下盐井的纳西人长期夹处在藏汉之间,他们的生产方式、生活习俗及宗教信仰都不可避免地染上了藏汉尤其是藏族同胞的特色,但仔细分辨仍有许多纳西族的古老底色。尤其值得欣喜的是,现在盐井的纳西人基本都脱贫致富了,而且每户少说也有两三个“吃公粮的”。“今后,我还得继续努力,团结村民,凝聚民心,铭记党恩;我们还要进一步扩大农村集体经济,不能全靠政府,也要靠我们自己来进一步创收增收。”展望起未来,老支书贡秋扎西坚定地说道。

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