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毕淑敏深入世界最大贫民窟 与非洲狮目光对视

2016-03-06 15:35:54   成都商报

“关于非洲,你了解多少?你可知道非洲的全名?”毕淑敏问她的朋友。

朋友说:“非洲不是就叫非洲吗?难道还有其他名字?”

“非洲的全名叫‘阿非利加洲’,意思是:阳光灼热的地方。”毕淑敏说。

在大家的印象中,毕淑敏的名字与小说紧密相连:《红处方》《血玲珑》《拯救乳房》《女心理师》《鲜花手术》等畅销书,想必不少读者都看过或听说过。

所以,或许也有很多人不晓得,毕淑敏其实还是位资深旅行者,曾经在海上进行过环球之旅,还到过南极。当然也写过不少游记。

2016年,毕淑敏老师的第一本新书,就是关于她去非洲的旅行见闻。名字也很配得上非洲大陆的辽阔广袤——《非洲三万里》。成都商报记者 陈谋

10岁起她就想去非洲 半个世纪后终于圆梦

“黑如漆墨的当地人,辽阔的稀树大草原,无尽的沙漠,蹦跳的羚羊,懒散的雄狮,裂如龟壳的土地,赤裸上身的土著,骨瘦如柴的老人,嘴唇上落着苍蝇的儿童,铁皮房顶的城市……”所有这些画面,都是在去非洲之前,毕淑敏对非洲的想象——几乎都是来自《动物世界》和各种新闻摄影作品的画面。

“到非洲去是我从小的梦想,那时候觉得非洲多遥远啊,多么陌生的一个大陆,甚至不能确定自己到底能不能完成这个梦想。”毕淑敏说,自己从10岁起就有这个想法,到60多岁才得以实现,这中间,跨越了半个世纪。

2014年的一天,注射了预防黄热病的疫苗、口服了预防霍乱的丸剂、怀揣着治疗恶性疟疾的青蒿素,毕淑敏踏上了去往非洲的旅程……

毕淑敏在非洲乘坐的交通工具是著名的“非洲之傲”列车。这是一列以非洲旅行为主题的专用蒸汽机车,单张车票标价1万美元~9万美元,有“流动的五星级酒店”“铁轨上的游轮”等美誉。以奢华闻名的“非洲之傲”,每节列车仅设两间包厢,车上所有设施供应都不逊色于五星酒店。

但对于毕淑敏而言,在舒适与豪华之外,“非洲之傲”由于集中了许多来自世界各国的旅行者,“就像一个小联合国,让我见识到形形色色的人。”

从上流社会奢华包厢

到全球最大的贫民窟

毕淑敏在这趟“非洲之傲”列车上结识了不少来自全球各地的旅伴,他们中有些是欧洲的贵族后裔,也有不少亚洲的商业精英,有位旅客已经走访过一百多个国家,有些旅客索性终年“居住”在豪华列车和游轮上,也是一种“在路上”的生活。

不过,列车行经之地,两边有着很多非洲最底层民众聚居的贫穷村落。一道车窗隔开了奢华与贫穷,餐车内的旅客们举起酒杯,开怀畅饮时,车窗外经常围满了饥饿的儿童。

这种强烈的对比,自然引起毕淑敏的关注,她不但记录了非洲各地人情风物、旅游见闻,还对车内车外两个世界做了细致的观察和比对。

除了和非洲中产阶级女主人共进晚餐外,她还跑到贫民窟中去观察底层民众的生活,并从历史、文化、心理等多方面探询人性中的秘密。她既记录下了富豪们的优雅与教养,也没放过他们的空虚和侵略性,正如她深入贫民窟记录下那些日渐消散的文化碎片。

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