老舍眼里的腊八粥:小型的农业展览会。

2019-01-10 10:31:03    北京日报

在明清时期的北京,不论是朝廷、官府、寺院还是黎民百姓家都要做腊八粥。明代的《永乐大典》载:“是月八日,禅家谓之腊八日,煮红糟粥以供佛饭僧。”后来粥里又加入红小豆、江米等米豆及果实,使得腊八粥不但用料逐渐增多而且制作亦越来越精美。《帝京景物略》载:“是日,家效庵寺,豆果杂米为粥,供而朝食,曰腊八粥。”

老舍眼里的腊八粥:小型的农业展览会。

北京人喝腊八粥有很多的规矩和习俗,腊八粥煮好后要用青红丝和干果红糖在粥上摆出福字、佛字,字的周围还用瓜子仁摆放个圆,寓意福临祥至、圆圆满满。要先敬神祭祖,之后要赠送亲友,一定要在中午之前送出去,最后才是全家人食用。如果把粥送给穷苦人吃,那更是为自己积德。腊八粥在民间还有巫术的作用。假如院子里种着花卉和果树,也要在枝干上涂抹一些腊八粥,相信这样能令花木来年多开花结果。

老舍在《北京的春节》一文中写道:“在腊八那天,人家里,寺观里,都熬腊八粥。这种特制的粥是祭祖祭神的,可是细一想,它倒是农业社会的一种自傲的表现。这种粥是用所有的各种的米、各种的豆与各种的干果——杏仁、核桃仁、瓜子、荔枝肉、莲子、花生米、葡萄干、菱角米等熬成的。这不是粥,而是小型的农业展览会。”老北京过腊八节、喝腊八粥的情景跃然纸上。

“腊八家家煮粥多,大臣特派到雍和。圣慈亦是当今佛,进奉熬成第二锅。”晚清诗人夏仁虎在《腊八》诗中描写了雍和宫腊八盛典的情景。

清廷历来重视雍和宫腊八盛典,雍和宫内有一口直径2米,深1.5米的古铜大锅,重约4吨,专用来熬腊八粥。雍和宫原址为明太监官房,康熙三十三年(1694年)始建,初为雍亲王府。雍正即位后,将其中的一半改为黄教上院,另一半作为行宫,后行宫为火所焚,遂于雍正三年(1725年)将上院改为行宫,称“雍和宫”。雍正十三年(1735年),雍正帝曾停灵于此。乾隆九年(1744年),雍和宫改作正式藏传佛教的寺庙,并成为清政府掌管全国藏传佛教事务的中心。

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