老舍眼里的腊八粥:小型的农业展览会。

2019-01-10 10:31:03    北京日报

原标题:腊八粥:小型的农业展览会  

老舍眼里的腊八粥:小型的农业展览会。

视觉中国/供图

到了腊八,就拉开了过年的序幕,“年”就要到了。“凝寒迫清祀,有酒宴嘉平。宿心何所道,藉此慰中情。” 南北朝时期史学家、文学家魏收的《腊节》诗,写的是寒凝大地、数九隆冬时节,人们在桌上摆上酒肉以祭祀百神,感谢百神的福佑,抒发久已宿居于心中的敬神之情。可见古时腊八节是祭祀祖先和神灵、祈求丰收和吉祥的节日。

《说文》记载:“冬至后三戍日腊祭百神。”冬至后第三个戍日是腊日。《荆楚岁时记》中说:“其日,并以豚酒祭灶神。”腊八节除祭祖敬神的活动外,人们还要逐疫。这项活动来源于古代的傩(古代驱鬼避疫的仪式)。《礼记》云:“傩人所以逐厉鬼也。”《吕氏春秋·季冬纪》注释说:“今人腊前一日,击鼓驱疫谓之逐除。”

清朝诗人李福在《腊八粥》诗中说:“腊月八日粥,传自梵王国。七宝美调和,五味香糁入。用以供伊蒲,藉之作功德。僧民多好事,踵事增华饰。”这首诗详尽地描述了腊八粥的起源和制作方法,同时还反映了佛寺施粥的情景。

腊八这一天有喝腊八粥的习俗,腊八粥又称“七宝五味粥”。唐代以前有关腊八节的诗文尚无喝腊八粥的文字,宋代的诗文里开始出现腊八粥的记载,如陆游在《十二月八日步至西村》中写道:“腊月风和意已春,时因散策过吾邻。草烟漠漠柴门里,牛迹重重野水滨。多病所须惟药物,差科未动是闲人。今朝佛粥交相馈,更觉江村节物新。”诗中说今天早晨喝了寺院舍的粥,肚子不饿,心情渐好,觉得我们这个江边小村草木渐萌,有些新春的景象了呢。可见喝腊八粥的节俗应是最早开始于宋代,已有一千多年的历史。《梦粱录》载:“此月八日,寺院谓之‘腊八’。大刹等寺,俱设五味粥,名曰‘腊八粥’;亦设红糟,以麸乳诸果笋芋为之,供僧,或馈送檀施、贵宅等家。”

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