四大春老大花汉春考古:化妆这件事是怎么开始的?

2018-12-24 17:19:11   消费日报网 

中国历史悠久,朝代众多,每个朝代都有属于自己的独特的化妆风格,甚至每个朝代的不同时期都有众多变化。在上古时期人们已经开始了对自己面貌的“改造”与妆点。在古代不乏有“四大春”者把这件改造之事做得精益求精,“四大春”何许人也?明嘉靖年间的花汉春,明崇祯年间的戴春林,清同治年间的孔凤春,清道光年间的谢馥春。从“年龄”排名来说,花汉春无疑是年纪最大的“老大”了。这“四大春”在化妆这件事上,可是作了不少的研究。

化妆起源六大学说

“脂泽粉黛”一词,最早见于《韩非子·显学篇》,由此可见,2200多年以前就有化妆品了。经过了几千年的发展,中国拥有了属于自己的璀璨的化妆文化。发展到唐朝时期是第一个鼎盛时期,修饰手法更为细腻,形成了完整的七个化妆步骤,眉形和贴花钿有数十种。明清时期满汉相融、国门初开,是第二个鼎盛时期,这个阶段很多如开在前门的花汉冲此类香粉店生意极为红火,店内的花汉春老牌化妆品、滴珠宫粉甚至一度被充为宫需。近代著名化学家齐如山(1875-1962)《中国的固有的化学工艺》一书也谈道:“几百年来,制粉以北京为最。”“宫中所用之脂粉”在晚清时期“有些时归商家承办,如前门外珠宝市路花汉冲香料铺,即是一家,他用宫中制粉方法来制作,最细者名滴珠宫粉”。现代历史学家傅振伦(1906.9.25-1999.5.8中国现代历史学家、方志学家、博物学家与档案学家)《七十年所见所闻》“花汉冲是该店主妇之名,开设于明朝,其匾额为严嵩所书(严嵩所写者尚有六必居酱菜铺及西鹤年堂国药店,一在珠宝市,一在菜市口)。后为厂坊,前为市面。”“清朝在崇文门设关收税,专充宫中胭脂之费,该号(花汉冲)生意因而大盛。”

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