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我的孟加拉奇幻旅程

2017-09-07 18:31:08   中国国际广播电台

孟加拉国,过去鲜为人知,现在却有越来越多人为之着迷。你知道她,或许是因为被某些新闻放大的贫穷,或许是因为泰戈尔诗中描写的美景,又或许因为“一带一路”倡议下,她越来越频繁地被提及。但这究竟这是个怎样的国度,还需亲身探访才能体验真切。

本文作者系北京大学南亚系研究生刘丽文,她曾于2014年去往孟加拉国并留下一段难忘的经历。来看看她眼里的孟加拉国是什么样的吧~

2014年在印度作交换生的时候,我在加尔各答初识孟加拉语,便为它的甜美与婉转所折服了。到如今,我已经学习了两年孟加拉语,并且在着手翻译一本孟语游记。在这期间,我曾经两次前往加尔各答进行田野调查,并在去年8月那个潮湿的雨季,只身来到孟加拉国,开始了一段奇幻的旅程……

当我走出机场,便瞬间被扑面而来的高温惊吓到了。然而更令我惊讶的是,在如此高温下我可爱的孟加拉朋友依然在机场外等候着我。那时我便知道,在这个国度比气温更高的,是人们的热情。

孟加拉有着悠久的历史和灿烂的文明。早在一千多年前,玄奘法师就曾到达过博格拉(bogra)一带,并在《大唐西域记》中记载道:“国大都城周三十余里。居人殷盛……有跋始婆僧伽蓝,庭宇显敞,台阁崇高。僧徒七百余人,并学大乘教法,东印度境硕学名僧多在于此。”千年后的今天,我也来到了这里,寻找着前朝的故迹。

在这里我有个神奇的经历。在政府工作的朋友哈米德先生为了保证我的安全,安排我住进了博格拉的政府接待处,甚至安排了警察护送我乘坐的车辆。警官们虽然看起来很严肃,但当他们发现我能讲孟加拉语时,立刻把我当成了自己人。第一次受到了这种待遇,我感到受宠若惊,觉得自己仿佛成了“大人物”。

孟加拉国有很多河。我最喜欢吉大港的Karnapuli。傍晚的时候搭一只小船到对岸,就是无尽的享受。明代文献《四夷广记》中曾记载:“顺风行二十日,先到海口,察地港有抽分所,海船俱泊于此。复用小船入港五百余里,至地名锁纳儿港。”傍晚,我站在河岸边想着,不知我的祖先们,那些在海上丝绸之路上的商人,是否也曾和我一样,对此一片秋水长天呢?

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