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“抓”出来的美味

2017-09-08 08:01:47   央广网

原标题:“抓”出来的美味

羊肠面。本报记者 邢曼玉 摄

煮面、冷水中过凉、晾水分、沾油处理……晚上6点多,马成彪已经开始忙碌第二天做羊肠面的食材。

羊肠面,俗称“抓面”,是西宁地区常见的一种风味小吃,当地人习惯将其当做早餐午餐,所以几乎所有的店铺午饭点之后全部售完。

据经营马记抓面店10年多的马成彪老板介绍,做抓面要在头一天晚上将面煮至9成熟,冷水中过一下凉,然后晾晾水分,再加入菜籽油直至面呈金黄色,最后再晾4、5个小时,装到桶里保鲜,第二天面条金黄,根根分明,嚼劲十足。

作为青海名小吃之一的抓面,其关键在羊肠。羊肠有两种做工相当细致的食材:肉肠和面肠。肉肠是取羊肺、羊肉、羊杂剁碎后装入羊肠中,再入水煮熟;面肠则是将豆面加水制成糊状,灌入羊肠之中。两种羊肠制好后,还会再加调料干炒,干炒过的羊肠外焦里嫩,香味诱人,让人垂涎欲滴。

抓面也被成为“青海的速食面”。是因为当有食客点餐时,店家会将事先准备好的面条抓起放在漏勺中,在煮沸的牛骨汤中反复过上几遍,再将羊肠、羊肉放在已经煮熟被肉汤反复过热的面上,调佐料即成。

“其中,过汤这道程序尤为重要,就是将汤舀入装好面的碗里再用最快的速度将汤倒出来,要反反复复三四次,使面有肉汤的味道,并且因为热肉汤的原因使面变热。过汤,速度快了,面没有味道,而且不热。速度慢了,完了!面就会变得黏黏糊糊口感很差。”马成彪说。

抓面深受人们喜爱,其中不得不提的另一个重要因素就是佐料:醋、蒜、韭菜沫、芹菜、盐加入面中搅拌均匀,再加上青海特有的辣子,麻辣鲜香,甚是爽口。

每一碗羊肠面都配有小碗汤,有些汤会加胡椒粉。吃面前时先喝一口热汤。原汤化原食呀!把汤倒入面,搅和开了吃上一口,浓重的香味便会弥漫口中,肠面又细又脆,里面的肠很软,风味独特,口感甚好。

天热可凉吃,天冷可热吃。凉面柔润金黄、悠长爽口、羊肠细嫩脆软、白洁鲜香、美味适口,实属风味独特的一种地方名吃。

说起抓面的历史,马成彪说,记得十几年以前,抓面只是青海的一种路边小吃,大家都习惯站着在路边吃,如今抓面这道地方特色美食越来越受欢迎,已经被开成大大小小的店铺。而且很多西宁人的早餐也是从这样一碗浓香四溢油腻解馋的羊肠面开始的。

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