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老北京胡同的“标配”

2017-09-06 15:06:56   中国青年网

北京的井,大多是苦水咸水,饮用不适,故四九城内的几个甜水井就特别招人待见,如东城的大、小甜水井,安定门外的上龙胡同的井,及什么“甘井”等等,在当时名声远扬,并留在地名中。其他地区如有甜水井,在《京师坊巷志稿》中,都要特别记述,像今日东城宽街附近的草场胡同,“有井,甘洌可用,不减十王府街之井也”。所谓“十王府街”即今日的王府井大街,街西的大、小甜水井胡同的井是京城为数不多“甘洌可用”的井。在今广安门内,当年有四眼井胡同,胡同的井水可直接食用,并留下了“斜街老屋孰为邻,井洌泉甘意倍亲”的诗句。

胡同离不开井,没有井,胡同的人就没有了生存条件。有了自来水之后,水井退出历史舞台,但许许多多留在了胡同名称中,如井儿胡同、三眼井、四眼井、高井、天井、七井、湿井、琉璃井胡同等等,让人们很自然地想起与水井相伴的时光。

寺庙和小铺儿不可或缺

在人们的物质生活得到满足之后,精神上得到满足也必不可少。因此,在京城数以千计的胡同里有许多佛、道教的寺庙宫观。胡同里以小庙为主,小土地庙、小财神庙、小火神庙、小灶王庙等道家小庙,遍布全城大大小小的胡同,虽然不是俗语所说的三步一寺庙,但数量很可观,似乎成了胡同的另一标配。道教是中华民族土生土长的宗教,又与人们的生活息息相关,信奉者众多,为方便祭祀,胡同里小庙就遍地开花了。佛教的寺庙也不少,而且有些还是大庙,如广化寺在鸦儿胡同、法源寺在西砖胡同,京城的隆福寺、护国寺、拈花寺、柏林寺、隆安寺等等也在胡同里生根发芽。由于胡同里有大庙,有些胡同还成了街,如阎王庙街、土地庙斜街等等。

胡同里庙多,有些庙还成了胡同名,以朝外大街为例,上世纪就有好几条以寺庙命名的,如:喇嘛寺胡同、观音寺胡同、琉璃寺胡同、圆恩寺胡同、净住寺胡同等。至于白庙胡同、宏庙胡同、净土寺胡同、龙王庙胡同、能仁寺胡同等等以庙为名的胡同就更多了。如今有些“更名换姓”,但查询1965年的北京地名志书,随处可见。有些与寺庙有关的胡同,在上世纪六十年代做了调整,如安内的永恒胡同原称姑姑寺胡同;灵光胡同原称灵官庙胡同;千福寺胡同原称千佛寺胡同;蓑衣胡同原称裟衣寺胡同;福祥胡同原称福祥寺胡同等等。

在水井、小庙之外,小铺儿也是老北京胡同的标配。小铺儿指的是分布在小胡同里的小商店,有油盐店(副食店)、杂货店(小百货),大一点儿的胡同会有粮店和煤铺。小铺儿听起来十分温馨,现实中也温馨。在《老北京的商市》一书中,曾有所记述。小铺是地道的小本经营,大多只有一间门脸,或者是前面卖货后面住家。几乎都没有字号,住在胡同的人只知道他们是“赵家小铺”、“王家小铺”而已。小铺儿不外乎是夫妻店、父子店、兄弟店,没有东、伙区别,系家庭式经营。

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