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千岛湖畔 南枣归来

2017-09-05 03:16:46   中国青年网

筛选出个头较大的青枣,烫红、晒红、煮枣、焙烘、晒枣……近日,在淳安县左口乡岭下村,当69岁的方马桥按照这些复杂的流程,再一次亲手制作南枣时,距离他最近一次操作已经整整过去42年了。

南枣是浙江传统的名贵特产,主要产自义乌、东阳、淳安及兰溪等地,在《中国名产》中被誉为“江南枣中佳品”,具有补脾养胃等功效。在义乌,南枣还有一个别名叫“京果”,曾经与火腿、红糖一起被称为“义乌三宝”,距今已有1700多年历史。

然而,这一包含着几代人乡土情结的江南特产,此前却在传统产地淳安一度中断,面临失传困境。

“南枣加工用的鲜枣价格并不高,但是工艺繁琐,制作起来24小时不能停,特别是加工周期长,一个周期往往要超过半个月,人工成本很高,所以做南枣的厂就越来越少。我查过,淳安最后一次做南枣还是1988年。”千岛湖花妖生物科技有限公司负责人许池明说,由于近些年消费者口味的转变,糖分多的食品市场不受欢迎,淳安人开始在今年尝试恢复南枣制作。

在南枣产地义乌,这种传统特产也面临着发展困境。自2000年起,义乌的重点产枣区逐渐减少,枣园的衰败使得产枣量降低,可加工南枣的义乌大枣已经很少。为此,去年义乌市科学与技术协会还专门开展义乌市枣类培训活动,向枣农传授理论、实践课程,以提高产量,复兴南枣。

在淳安县左口乡岭下村一座由老粮库改造而成的厂房内,方马桥和40多年前的同事方道廷一同被聘请来,恢复这个断了几十年的传统特产加工工艺。

南枣的制作工艺十分讲究。“加工有十道工序,每一道工序都马虎不得,特别是像第一道工序烫红,时机要掌握得非常到位。”站在炉温很高的灶台前,方道廷麻利地演示了一遍,“现在我们周边,烫红就剩我一个能做,再不恢复就要失传了。”

据他介绍,经过初步烫红的青枣需在阳光下晾晒半天,再入锅煮熟。沸腾的开水中,枣子入锅5秒便要迅速提起,随后拿到外面晾晒、烘焙。

左口乡被称为枣树之乡,也是浙江的青枣主产地。此次的南枣制作共用了8000公斤鲜枣,最后制出南枣2500多公斤。

工艺复杂、制作耗时,复兴南枣是否有其必要?“品质最好的一级南枣,批发价高达每公斤300元。”在南枣的另一产地东阳,石盆村兴合枣业合作社负责人吴天水告诉记者,每年,东南亚等世界各地的公司会来石盆村采购南枣。2016年,石盆村共出口南枣20余吨,枣业产值达千万元,枣树成了摇钱树。

在东阳南市街道上朱村,一批即将出口东南亚、欧美等地的“非遗”南枣正在火热加工中。生产大户贾章明介绍说,目前,19张熜床全部启用,还新添了择枣机和运枣专用手推车,大大提高了工作效率。为适应出口市场的需要,他计划加工成品南枣逾20吨,还派出多人到东阳巍山、义乌等地收购青枣。

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