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柯璀玲:活态传承民族服饰的巧娘

2017-09-01 09:27:34   中国青年网

制作好的裕固族服饰。

在纸上画好服装草图。

向记者们讲解裕固族服饰的传统。

指导裕固族女青年制作民族服饰。

见到柯璀玲时,她正戴着老花眼镜,一针一线认真地“绘制”客户定制的民族服饰。

中等身材、面颊红润、快言快语,一提起裕固族服饰,柯璀玲的话匣子一下子打开了。“裕固族服饰特点就是红缨帽和头面,作为游牧民族,特别珍贵的东西都会戴在身上,像头面上有红珊瑚、绿松石、玛瑙……”,柯璀玲对裕固族服饰了如指掌。

肃南裕固族自治县隶属于张掖市,是中国唯一的裕固族自治县。目前全县有裕固族民歌、服饰和婚俗三项国家级非物质文化遗产。柯璀玲就是裕固族服饰国家级非物质文化遗产传承人。

从14岁开始,柯璀玲对本民族的历史文化产生兴趣,她四处收集本民族服装配饰、刺绣、生活用品,还不断向族人学习各种手艺。如今,她会本民族的皮雕、刺绣等16样手艺。

2005年,从就职的县民族博物馆退休之后,柯璀玲的心思全部放在了民族传统服饰上,她对未来裕固族非物质文化遗产的创新与发展充满了信心。

如今,做缝制盘花的儿媳、做皮雕的女儿、做刺绣的侄女,将来都打算像她一样申报裕固族文化传承人。在肃南县非物质文化遗产保护传承中心,一些社区居民、下岗工人,还有退牧还草的牧民也加入了裕固族文化传承的行列,拜柯璀玲为师,学习传统手工技能。

柯璀玲深知活态传承是对民族文化最好的保护,她要一代一代不遗余力地传承下去…… 本报记者 盛学卿

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