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瑞典人的独特文化:夏末的小龙虾派对盛宴

2017-08-29 09:17:29   中国经济网

八月,夏末,瑞典小龙虾派对是一幕独特的风景。当地人邀请亲朋好友欢聚在自家院落,在欢乐的歌声中尽情享受淡水鳌虾的鲜美,陶醉于简单、轻松、转瞬即逝的金色夏季。

夏末的瑞典依旧阳光灿烂,却已能感受到秋风瑟瑟。即便如此,也挡不住当地人在户外庆祝这一传统派对盛宴的热情。笔者有幸受邀参与其中,得以领略瑞典人将美味与传统相结合的独特文化。

伴随着欢快的琴声,大家说说笑笑;绿草地上长长的餐桌上摆满了一盘盘红红的小龙虾。当地人将小龙虾经盐水与皇冠莳萝烹煮后即食,搭配上当地的特色啤酒和起泡酒。主食搭配瑞典特色的野生鸡油菌小葱卷或土豆丝洋葱通心面;后餐则为甜点配咖啡,有草莓派、水果塔、莓子奶油布丁,亦或是野生蓝莓搭配提拉米苏。

派对上的布置以及对食客们的打扮都有特殊要求:比如,餐桌周围要挂上鲜艳的纸灯笼,这些纸灯笼上的图案是一轮微笑的满月,似乎在见证着人们享用美味的美好时光。餐桌上的各种器皿如桌布、玻璃杯、盘子等都会体现小龙虾的元素。此外,大家胸前系着印有红红的龙虾图案的餐巾,头戴滑稽的纸尖帽,上面印有极具特色的图案:身着燕尾服的龙虾绅士,头戴礼帽,左钳子夹着莳萝花,右钳子拄着拐杖,胸前带着翠绿色的餐巾布,在金色的月光下享受这美好的时刻……

大声、大口吮吸小龙虾的汤汁不会被认为是不礼貌的举止,相反,在这一特殊的传统盛宴上,吃小龙虾时所发出的音量以及盘中堆积成山小龙虾壳的数量被认为是热情程度的标志。伴随着酒精的释放,平日腼腆的瑞典人还会情不自禁一起大声欢唱当地的特色歌曲,讴歌对美味食物、夏季时光的热爱。

瑞典人早在16世纪就开始吃小龙虾。只不过在相当长的一段时间内,唯有贵族才能够品尝到这一美味佳肴。当时的吃法主要是将小龙虾的肉制作成香肠、烩肉、馅饼或者布丁。十九世纪中期,人们开始用今天的方法来烹饪并食用小龙虾,八月份举行的小龙虾盛宴在中产阶级间盛行。到了20世纪,小龙虾已成为了全国公认的美食,社会各界人士纷纷庆祝,人们聚在一起开怀大吃、畅饮、嬉戏,从而使得小龙虾派对成为了瑞典夏季标志性的传统节日。

由于担心过度捕捞,20世纪初,瑞典政府下令限制捕捉内河小龙虾。捕捉季节被限制在八月后的几个月,小龙虾变成了人们竞相追捧的独特美味。当时,瑞典本土的小龙虾品种因寄生霉菌而大幅减少濒临灭绝,而美国的小龙虾品种则被引入瑞典的淡水中繁衍。如今,当地出产的小龙虾数量已远远无法满足消费的需要,市面上因此出现了来自中国、美国和土耳其的物美价廉的进口小龙虾。不过,瑞典当地水域出产的小龙虾被公认为是最好的,因此价格也是最高的。当地媒体甚至在8月初就开始造势,不仅会对当年各个品牌的小龙虾进行评分排序,还会请出社会名流进行点评。

餐桌上的龙虾壳越堆越高,夜色降临,大家跟着琴声酣畅高歌,仿佛暂时忘却了夏季已逝的伤感。(付一鸣)

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