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杨晓桐:我们家族的轨迹都在满绣里

2017-08-27 07:00:47   中国青年网

近日,在沈阳举办的郎朗见面会上,这位钢琴家欣喜获赠三样礼物:面人、剪纸、满绣,具有地域性、民族性、艺术性的盛京满绣作品让朗朗爱不释手。

郎朗是满族人,赠送盛京满绣的人是沈阳非物质文化遗产第四代传承人巴彦殊兰。

问题来了,这幅满绣作品是什么,为何让郎朗如此欣赏。

这个满绣作品名叫《仙鹤方补》,作者是49岁的巴彦殊兰,汉族名叫杨晓桐。从曾外祖母开始,到外祖母、母亲,到自己以及女儿,整个家族都是满绣手工艺者。

曾外祖母从小精通满绣

杨晓桐的满绣作品《仙鹤方补》,是参照故宫馆藏文物缂丝绘画作品(道光时期)进行的手绘刺绣。图案类型属于清中后期的典型代表,是道光时期当朝一品文官官员的“官补”。

当场,郎朗对这份来自本民族的礼物很是好奇:“您用了多长时间才绣成?”

巴彦殊兰回答:两个月。《仙鹤方补》采用满族宫廷传统的“盘金绣”加“打籽绣”工艺绣制,以金、银线加五彩丝线绣制出仙鹤立于海水江崖纹之上,鹤颈盘金工艺加彩色丝线绣制的鹤顶朝向右方的太阳。

昨天,沈阳晚报、沈报融媒记者在杨晓桐的满绣工作室见到了她,她正在义务传授手工刺绣旗袍、艺术绣画、刺绣手包、绣鞋等满绣手工艺品制作过程。杨晓桐说:“满绣专指满族刺绣,是清朝时期皇家文化、地位等级的标志,又被称为‘中国清朝皇族刺绣’。我是满绣世家,从我的曾外祖母开始,一直到我女儿,我们这个母系家族和满绣有缘。”

杨晓桐的曾外祖母乌尔古察,正黄旗,曾外祖父哈尔哈觉罗,正白旗。满族的传统是女孩从四五岁开始就要恪守大家闺秀的教育,学习针线活,衣服、鞋帽、围巾等都要自己做。

外祖母是婉容娘家王府的绣娘

杨晓桐的外祖母哈尔哈觉罗氏,满族正白旗,受到母亲的嫡传,精通满族盘金绣。1921年,12岁的她作为皇后婉容娘家王爷府的绣娘,为婉容绣过嫁衣。

杨晓桐说:“我姥姥家也算官宦人家,由于有满绣绝技,作为皇上直接统辖的清上三旗,12岁被分到四格格府做女红。这个四格格就是婉容的母亲爱新觉罗氏,是定郡王溥煦的孙女,清朝皇族小姐”。杨晓桐说,早在婉容成为皇后的前3年,娘家王府里就开始为其赶制嫁衣,她的外祖母也参与其中。后来婉容结婚后,16岁的外祖母也出王府嫁人了。

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