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夏入川西,遇见春天

2017-08-24 08:59:17   中国青年网

川西风光。

都说川西秋色无边,其实盛夏才是川西的绝好时节;草木繁盛,光合作用释放大量氧气,让高原反应不会那么强烈。于是,我们逃离火热的重庆,夏入川西遇见春天。

野花与雪水

自驾至泸定,我们激动地站在泸定桥上,铁索衔接着木板,大渡河奔腾而下。你能想象当年红军冒着枪林弹雨匍匐前进,飞夺泸定桥的惊险。无论是始建的清康熙年间还是抗日解放时期,这座铁索桥都是交通要道。

“跑马溜溜的山上,一朵溜溜的云哟——”因这首歌而扬名天下的跑马山环抱康定。夜间点缀若繁星点点的灯火,一早登临天若苍穹笼盖四野。原始松林茂密,松鼠欢蹦乱跳,我们沿着塌方的山路攀岩而上。怒放生命的野花、害羞的藏阿妈、湍急的雪水……溜溜地美呀!

康定还有惊鸿一见的木格措风景区。“木格”在藏语中意为野人,“措”就是湖泊海子。取名源自一个传奇故事:年轻的情侣为躲避土司的强迫和拆散而背井离乡,他俩翻山越岭路经此处,感觉很美就安营扎寨生活。后来,藏民发现他俩,居然误认为是山中野人。这片生长着许多松萝和红石滩(对环境空气和水质要求极高)的圣地,神灵都会眷顾吧。

亲切与震撼

经过天路十八弯,穿过高尔寺隧道,来到海拔4000米以上的理塘。理塘人一致推荐的长青春科尔寺是康巴地区格鲁派第一大寺庙,1580年由三世达赖索南嘉措主持建造。可惜毁于一场大火,现在的寺庙金碧辉煌却全无古韵。极有礼貌的藏族小朋友在庙门热情欢迎我们,倍感民族一家亲。

冲着电影《路过你的全世界》,我们抵达了“全世界路过的”亚丁,小镇处处车水马龙人满为患。1928年,美国植物学家、探险家约瑟夫·洛克发现了这处“向阳之地”;2016年电影《路过你的全世界》拍摄了这里的雪山、峭壁、陡崖、海子、冰川、草场、森林、溪流……静谧安详的世外之境从此声名大噪。

无论是小环线:冲古寺—珍珠海—仙乃日—冲古草甸,还是大环线:洛绒牛场—央迈勇—牛奶海—夏诺多吉—五色海,独特的地貌和原生态自然都让人确信这里有神明,在他的庇护下,一草一木一山一水都以生命的幻化与你同在;它们活过千百万年,在这孤独的一方被你遇见。甚至引得我们不走寻常路,跋山涉水勇攀雪峰“仙乃日”。西行之路,我们看到了不少徒步者和骑行者,真的被勇士所震撼折服。

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