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邂逅田子坊(海客游)

2017-08-21 04:21:25   中国青年网

田子坊弄堂一角

7年前还在上大学的我,因为世博会来到上海。时光荏苒,7年后我再次踏足这片土地。

初识田子坊,源于今年年初朋友圈里好友的一张照片。这里被称作是上海最小资的地点之一。故地重游,在观赏了霓虹闪烁的外滩、因水而秀的朱家角后,田子坊又向我展示了一个独特视角的上海风貌。

田子坊位于打浦桥地区的一条小街上,原先是街道小厂废弃的仓库,1998年后,这里开始整修,成为具有鲜明文化特色的街道。“田子坊”是画家黄永玉几年前给旧弄堂起的雅号。

据史载,“田子方”是中国古代的画家,“田子坊”取其谐音得名。曾经拥挤平常的弄堂,抹上了“苏荷”(SOHO)的色彩,变身成现在的创意聚集地,多了艺术气息。很多文化人和艺术家以及一些工艺品小店陆续入驻此地,例如尔冬强、李守白、王家俊等。

在上海乘坐地铁到打浦桥,过马路,便看到了田子坊的入口。田子坊一派里弄民居味道。弄堂里除了创意店铺和画廊、摄影展,最多的就是各种各样的咖啡馆。午后时分的田子坊,阳光在古老的弄堂内穿梭流淌,斑驳的光影随风飘动,不经意间将整个弄堂都笼罩在温暖明亮的光晕之中。弄堂里不时的有习习凉风吹过,空中弥漫着慵懒的咖啡香,大有“偷得浮生半日闲”的意境。

眼前的这些老房子是历史的亲历者,改造为艺术空间后,它们更像一个个会讲故事的人,一边诉说当年的故事,一边讲述当下的艺术。

穿梭于弄堂之间,感受着老上海的风味。坐在一家手工酸奶店里,店主是位淳朴自然的上海阿姨,带着上海人的精细。我轻声地称赞阿姨做的酸奶味道好,她说,“哦呦,你放心的啦,阿姨这里是自己的房子,跟外面那些出租店面都不一样的”,语气热情又骄傲。

田子坊充满了生活的意趣。楼下是商家,楼上是居民。下面是时尚摩登的游人,楼上衣架支出的是一家的红裙绿衫,在灰砖映衬下格外明媚。

斑驳古老的石库门,咖啡馆里的老唱片,小洋楼里的花花草草,都流淌着旖旎的上海情。

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