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欧洲人的“大锅饭”
2017-08-11 16:26:49 中国青年网
■周文翰
说不清我在西班牙旅行时吃了多少盘肉菜饭(paella)——国内常翻译为“海鲜饭”,其实不仅仅用海鲜——从北到南每个市镇、每个餐馆几乎都可以点一盘,竞相宣布他们的做法如何独特、食材如何新鲜,当然,对我这样的游客来说,最直观的还是兔肉、鸡肉、龙虾、墨鱼等等主料的不同,最初对那略微坚硬、油腻的饭粒还有点排斥,在旅程中缓慢接纳,乃至最后离开西班牙以后竟然有点想念。那次漫长的旅行让我对“米饭”的认知更为自由和开阔,后来回国以后,我还时不时在家里试验各种自创的肉菜饭。肉菜饭中主要的几种食材——稻米、藏红花、番茄酱恰好串联起对西班牙影响至深的几种文化和几段历史。欧洲爱吃米饭的人较少,主要就是意大利、西班牙、法国南部的人爱吃,这都与历史上受到阿拉伯文化的影响有关。
711年大马士革的阿拉伯君主穆萨命令将军塔里克·伊本·齐亚德(Tariq ibn-Ziyad)率领六千五百名北非柏柏尔人和五百名阿拉伯骑兵北渡直布罗陀海峡,登陆安达鲁西亚的陆地后立刻焚烧战船,怀着背水一战的意志向北进军,击败了西哥特国王的军队,征服了伊比利亚半岛南部的大片土地,此后这些基督徒眼中的“摩尔人”开始了几个世纪的统治,把许多阿拉伯的食材、做法传播到这里。
例如稻米,就是八世纪的时候摩尔人占领如今西班牙中部的瓦伦西亚( Valencia)地区后,看中此处平缓富饶的近河湿地,就在这里种植稻米,供喜欢吃大米的阿拉伯上层人士用来做他们熟悉的食物“香料饭”(pilaf),后来本地一些人也逐渐爱上了这种粮食,他们把稻米称为arroz,这是对其阿拉伯语称呼arúzz的音译。香料饭就是用米饭、肉炖的。15世纪基督徒把摩尔人赶出伊比利亚半岛后,用类似的做法烹饪他们的肉菜饭,其中的关键食材番茄,是地理大发现以后从美洲传入西班牙的。到17世纪瓦伦西亚才有对肉菜饭的文字记载,而到19世纪才出现了用圆形平底锅制作肉菜饭的做法,这可能受到新兴商业和旅游业的刺激,为了满足众多外乡人的胃口,瓦伦西亚的餐馆竞相开始做这种看上去炫目的“大锅饭”。
最传统的瓦伦西亚大锅饭用的肉类食材并不是海鲜,而是烤制的兔肉、鸡肉、蜗牛肉和一些本地的豆子、橄榄油,用烟熏红辣椒粉、大蒜、迷迭香调味,也如同中东人那样喜欢在米饭里加入葡萄干或坚果,撒一点藏红花或姜黄粉,既能增色,又能调味,煮起来香飘四溢。西班牙全境蔓延这类大锅饭则是拜上世纪90年代旅游业的发展所赐,几乎所有地方的餐馆都可以提供肉菜饭甚至将其作为主打,使用各种海鲜的“海鲜饭”也远比传统做法更为流行。
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