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信任的美好 留学以色列

2017-08-08 06:36:51   央广网

死海图 图片来源:百度百科

2016年10月27日上午9时,飞机降落在特拉维夫本古里安机场。北京大学外国语学院15级希伯来语专业的7名同学踏上了这块向往的土地,开始了在以色列历时8个月的交换生生活。每个人拖着50多公斤的行李艰难地行走,第一次问路局促紧张的样子还历历在目。我们目睹了纷争,亲历了人性的善与恶……每天都在思考世俗与宗教、冲突与和平。今天,我想聊聊在死海旅游期间遇到的一位老爷爷,下期聊聊班上的同学。

有人可能会问,游遍以色列是怎样一种体验?

走很长的路,爬很陡的山,吃相似的食物,也曾顶着烈日炙烤,等着迟迟不到的公交车……还好遇上了很多有意思的人。

我还记得第一次靠近死海的情景,大巴车一路下行,蜿蜒的公路被鲜有植被的戈壁和沙漠包围,下车的一瞬间被干燥的热浪逼得喘不过气来,但这些都掩盖不了死海的惊艳。因为死海的湖水盐分浓度极高,除个别的微生物外基本没有生物存活,加之常年炎热无风的气候,澄澈的水面上没有一丝波纹。湖面上经常雾气腾腾,傍晚的太阳光经过云雾层层散射后变成蓝紫色,在天际线处形成一抹少女粉。

终于来到了传说中“可以漂在上面看报纸”的死海,却因为安息日没有交通工具、找不到公共海滩而不能下水。身旁的老爷爷了解了我们的想法后,主动提出第二天清晨开车带我们去以温泉和黑泥而著称的野滩。天还蒙蒙亮就去赴约,老爷爷准时出现在了停车场。但我们还是有几分将信将疑,始终不敢相信有人自愿费油、费时、费事,起个大早带几个陌生人泡温泉、看日出。

老爷爷是住在死海附近的居民。当我们在青年旅社大厅闲聊时,老爷爷就像下楼遛弯的邻居,摇摇晃晃走过来,坐在你一言我一语的年轻人旁边慈祥地微笑。后来才知道他有严重的哮喘,多走几步路就要拿出一个小瓶子吸氧。

初入死海的经历有些惨痛,1个月过去了,我手掌上的疤痕还在。但回过头来想想,倘若没有经验丰富的当地居民相助,大概我这半条命都要搭进去了。海滩遍布着大块锋利的砂砾,途中我人字拖的绑带断了,踉跄一下手脚就被划破了,这时候下死海等于往伤口上撒盐。基本不会游泳、6年没下过水的我又在漂浮的过程中侧翻,一头扎到了高浓度盐水里。而眼鼻口进水是在死海游泳的大忌,且不说疼痛,得不到妥当处理,甚至会导致眼睛失明。

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