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我眼中的古巴(下)——开放包容的精神文化生活

2017-06-24 08:43:16   国际在线

笔者2007年至2014年间在古巴学习生活,又在2017年再次来到古巴。这十年间,发生了古美建交、卡翁去世、邻国委内瑞拉持续动荡波及古巴等重大事件,笔者有幸真实体验,密切关注在上述重大事件背景下古巴社会方方面面的变革进程。

如今,漫步哈瓦那街头,老人们依然拄着拐棍,手持配给卡,在街角食品店排队等待面包出炉;青年男女穿着靓丽,发沾啫喱,朝气蓬勃地出门打拼,孩子们身着统一校服,系着领巾,在老师的带领下排队过街……一切宛若从前,然而来自迈阿密的豪华邮轮的入港,北美航班的降落,香奈儿的时装秀,《速度与激情8》的追车,教皇、美国总统的造访……却仿佛努力昭示天下,一切都在悄无声息地巨变着。

审时度势的政策,与时俱进的节奏,勇往直前的步伐,风云变幻的时局,将带来进步还是倒退,繁荣还是混乱,令人不得不心生牵挂,拭目以待。而眼下,我们完全可以从住房、个体户、通讯、文娱生活等变化的细节中窥见端倪,展望未来。

相关阅读:我眼中的古巴(上)——经济改革带来的生活巨变

移动通讯、互联网日益普及

很长一段时间里,当世界其它地方的居民人手一只智能手机,已经习惯,甚至依赖无线网络带来的便捷,古巴却始终还是西半球手机普及率和拥有率最低的国家,就更不要说网络了。

在古巴,过去最常见的通讯工具是有线电话。冷战期间,前苏联帮助其通讯系统打下了一些薄弱的基础,但是好景不长,后来长达半个世纪的封锁制裁,最终捉襟见肘,设备更新,技术换代都成问题。仅存的绝大多数固话都设在国家机关、公共机构、企、事业单位,普通居民即便是买得起电话机,也租不起线路,所以很长一段时间里,机关、学校、医院、商店、车站里的公用电话常常都被员工用于“煲电话粥”,非常误事。

2006年9月25日,隶属于古巴信息通讯部的古巴电信公司ETECSA成立,2008年3月28日,国家宣布取消个人购买手机限制,普通公民可享受移动通信服务。消息一出,位于哈瓦那主教大街的电信营业部,一个上午售出近70部手机。在此之前,只有长期旅居古巴的外国人、本国政要、文体明星经过批准,才能购买数量有限的手机,这个小小的工具,竟成为了一种象征着名誉和地位的特殊福利。

购机限制取消之初,高昂的通话费用依然令绝大多数月平均工资只有20-25 CUC的古巴民众望而却步。

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