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我眼中的古巴(上)——经济改革带来的生活巨变

2017-06-16 10:18:43   国际在线

笔者2007年至2014年间在古巴学习生活,又在2017年再次来到古巴。这十年间,发生了古美建交、卡翁去世、邻国委内瑞拉持续动荡波及古巴等重大事件,笔者有幸真实体验,密切关注在上述重大事件背景下古巴社会方方面面的变革进程。

如今,漫步哈瓦那街头,老人们依然拄着拐棍,手持配给卡,在街角食品店排队等待面包出炉;青年男女穿着靓丽,发沾啫喱,朝气蓬勃地出门打拼,孩子们身着统一校服,系着领巾,在老师的带领下排队过街……一切宛若从前,然而来自迈阿密的豪华邮轮的入港,北美航班的降落,香奈儿的时装秀,《速度与激情8》的追车,教皇、美国总统的造访……却仿佛努力昭示天下,一切都在悄无声息地巨变着。

审时度势的政策,与时俱进的节奏,勇往直前的步伐,风云变幻的时局,将带来进步还是倒退,繁荣还是混乱,令人不得不心生牵挂,拭目以待。而眼下,我们完全可以从住房、个体户、通讯、文娱生活等变化的细节中窥见端倪,展望未来。

图说:一辆美式老爷车正驶过黑旗广场后的美国驻古巴大使馆。2015年之前,这里是美驻古利益代表处。它前面的广场上是无数巨大的旗杆,古巴人民常常在这里集会,升起黑旗向美国抗议。如今旗杆上已经没有黑旗,而围墙内的星条旗高高飘扬。赵冠岚供图

古巴的住房政策演变

革命前的古巴,很长一段时间是属于殖民权贵的乐园,他们住在豪宅里,推开百叶窗,便能看见绿树成荫的种植园,而土著和混血后裔却大多只能分享狭窄的街道公寓,或者作为奴隶或佣人寄居在富人的庄园里。革命胜利后,古巴政府推出一系列打破阶级,追求公平正义的住房政策。那些西殖时期的府邸、美殖时期的庄园,变成了机关、学校、博物馆,那些豪华酒店和公寓成为了人民的共同财产,在前苏联的援助下,大型现代化体育馆、电影院、医院、住宅楼更是拔地而起,人们憧憬着美丽舒适的家园。

哈瓦那街头的古老住宅,已经饱经风霜,年久失修。赵冠岚供图

然而,随着六七十年代国际局势的风云巨变和古美关系的迅速恶化,美好的梦想只能化为泡影。长年的禁运和制裁使得资本、原材料、劳动力、技术始终紧缺,老建筑年久失修,新建筑建设缓慢,人口增长,岁月消磨,现有资源大量消耗,得不到补充,而21世纪初的几场飓风灾害更是使得国民经济遭到重创,大量资源被投入到灾后重建中,国家住房建设计划几近搁置。据古巴国家住房研究所统计,超过300万户家庭中,仅有六成的家庭住房状况堪称良好。在哈瓦那几乎随处可见坍塌的老建筑。新建的大楼大多都提供给了政府机关、学校、医院以及对外盈利的酒店和商业中心,城市居民居住条件非常恶劣,没有门窗、屋顶、地板漏洞、楼梯坍塌、线路报废均是常态。村镇还保持着过去的生态,基础设施极为落后。

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