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从面食演变感受消费新理念

2017-09-18 07:21:42   中国经济网

“手中有粮、心中不慌”,吃饭问题长期被中国人视为头等大事。

面粉曾是我国很多家庭非常重要的储备物品。在并不遥远的上世纪80年代,北方很多家庭的储存室都会放上几袋甚至十几袋面粉,这些50斤装的大袋面粉,被整整齐齐堆放在一起,很是壮观。当时老百姓对面粉的价格很敏感,一两毛钱的涨幅都能成为街头巷尾的热议话题,也会刺激他们预存一些面粉。

一直以来,馒头、面条是北方地区居民餐桌上的主角,是他们赖以生存的最主要食物。在不少地方,人们可以少吃菜、少吃水果,但离不开面。几个大馒头就是一餐饭,一碗油泼面即能吃得酣畅淋漓。

进入新世纪以来,情况的变化很快,面粉在中国人的消费结构中不断下降。在城市家庭中50斤大袋面粉已很少见,在农村家庭很少有人还会大量储存面粉。据统计,从2013/2014年度到2016/2017年度,国内面粉加工业对小麦的消费量从7222.5万吨下降至6660万吨。其中,2014年至2015年度降幅最大,从7222.5万吨直接降到6900万吨。

由面粉联想到面包,与面粉消费量下降形成对比的是,面包快速进入中国人的餐桌,正在占据着越来越重要的位置。在很多城市家庭的早餐食谱上,面包取代曾经的馒头和油条,受到人们的欢迎。在各大小城市中,各种各样的面包房随处可见,顾客络绎不绝。

面包从上世纪80年代进入我国消费领域,当时更多是小孩解馋的美食,没有人想到它会成为今天的重要食物。作为一种外来食品,我国消费者对面包的接受程度经历了一个逐步提高的过程。在这个过程中,我国消费者的消费观念逐步转变,健康型、享受型食品受到更多青睐。因此,以面包为代表的烘焙食品作为新型方便食品,其健康、时尚的形象赢得了越来越多消费者的喜爱,逐渐成为普通民众的日常食品。

一组数字直观地反映了以面包为代表的烘焙食品所受欢迎程度。我国面包糕点行业从21世纪初呈现出快速发展趋势。1999年至2013年平均每年增长速度高达18.6%,2014年和2015年的增速是11%左右。据业内人士估计,未来仍有望保持10%以上的增长速度。

从面粉到面包,我们可以看到,人们餐桌上的品种越来越丰富多样,人们对食物的消费结构和消费理念正在发生着很大的变化。如今,曾经熟悉的大碗吃面场景已很难见到,肉蛋奶成为生活的必需品,蔬菜水果肯定必不可少,粗杂粮也开始占据一席之地。其实,随着人们物质生活水平蒸蒸日上,消费量下降的不只是面粉等传统食材,相比刚进入中国时的风光,洋快餐近几年也已跌下神坛。曾经,家长以一顿麦当劳作为奖励孩子的“美味”,如今却是实在没得选时,才同意孩子吃炸鸡汉堡。父母的选择变化,不仅是因为兜里钱包鼓了,更缘于头脑中更加健康的食品消费理念。

从面粉到面包,我们可以看到正在形成的食品消费新理念、新需求,要求“供给侧”必须跟上。近些年来,各式各样精美的面包房涌现在城市里,满足着人们舌尖上的需求。近些年来,“互联网+美食”成为快速发展的新兴业态,穿梭于大街小巷的外卖小哥,打通了舌尖上的“最后一公里”。

从面粉到面包是一个大的跳跃,从面包到“X”一定还会有更惊人的跳跃。(原文来源:经济日报 作者:李 亮)

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