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三下西南(4):清凉氧吧光雾山

2017-08-24 11:42:46   中国经济网

2017年7月20——23日,晴、阴、雨,华山到光雾山桃园景区486公里。

带着一览众山小的满足,带着连日奔波游览的疲惫,带着“天威咫尺”的心灵戒训,我们于20日赶到四川巴中光雾山桃园景区,与兄弟姐妹们汇合,在这个大山深处的清凉胜地和绿色氧吧,休整三天。

有人问:“光雾山是啥意思?”

有人答:“就是光能看到雾的山。”

这个幽默也对也不对,说对,是因为雾水雾气是光雾山的一大特色;说不对,因为光雾山除了雾水雾气外,还有许多森林公园共性的优点,比如说奇峰异石、林木葱茏、小溪潺潺、飞瀑挂山……

光雾山距巴中南江县城70公里,到陕西汉中市70公里,主峰海拔2500米,景区面积400余平方公里,是国家4A级景区。景区森林覆盖率98.5%,夏季平均气温约27摄氏度,夜间睡觉必须盖被子,实在是安逸得很。

我家兄弟姐妹选择这里的主要目的并非是游山玩水,而是在酷热的夏天来这里享受清凉和氧吧。

普陀村海拔1200米左右,25户农家分散在“之”字形的山路上。我们住在普陀村的一家农民客栈,名字很高大上:普陀山庄,在景区未开发地块的半山腰上,从桃园景区大门进入后还要开车十几分钟。

普陀山庄这名字听起来是有点“大口马牙”,但要论绿色幽静、清凉醉氧,那确实名副其实。两栋黑白相间的四层新楼房,隐藏在茂密的绿色中,楼后是两座俊俏的山峰,站在楼房走廊或平台上,远处的高山在飞奔的云朵和变幻的雾气中,时隐时现,形态各异,如梦如幻……路两旁的玉米红薯和各色蔬菜、圈养的两头大肥猪、楼后山坡围网中的土鸡、还有厨房中飘出的农家饭菜香味,明确无误地告诉游客们,这里是天然绿色的农家乐。

普陀村以前很苦,用当地老乡的话说就是:“穷得莫奈何”。近年来,在政府的大力帮助下,普陀村几乎家家户户都建成了3至4层的新楼房,致富方式也很统一:依托自然风光和独特的雾水雾气,开办集旅游观光、消夏避暑、修身养性、健康食材为一体的农家乐,脱贫致富已经形成了一种“集体进行时”。

普陀山庄的老板秦彩英,48岁,还是村妇女主任,脑子活泛、精明能干。她一家4口,两个女儿一个成家在河南,一个在重庆打工。老公在外打工一年能收入3—4万,她自己在家务农并经营农家乐,农家乐一年也能收入2—3万,加上每年当村妇女主任的补助8000元,她家仅他们夫妇两人,一年的收入就有7、8万,生活水平当然是“芝麻开花节节高”。

现在的四川,经济发展稳健,植被恢复迅速,各种各样的农家乐遍布巴山蜀水。四川人又会享受生活,春夏秋冬一年四季都能找到放松心身、吃喝玩乐的理由和借口。于是回归自然、拥抱绿色、健康养生,已经成为天府之国中老年人的一种现代时尚。

早上六七点钟站在半山放眼望去,远处的大山森林和近处的农作物都是湿淋淋的,山谷中雾气氤氲,团团云雾在山谷山腰山顶快速变幻着图案,当一轮红日跃出东边的山头,视野中的一切又都披上七色彩衣,新鲜的空气充盈着整个肺部。

傍晚太阳落山后,大山密林渐渐寂静下来,虽少有山风,但那种来自大山和密林深处的清凉,入皮肤入肌体入心脾,舒坦得令人全身放松。

昨晚应邀参加另一群避暑人的自娱自乐晚会,回客栈的路上,我们突然欢呼雀跃起来:前后左右的树林、农田、草丛以及天上,成百上千的萤火虫在飞舞、在歌唱、在约会,一亮一灭的荧光,带给人类快乐。

漆黑的大山密林,满天的星斗,还有这么多的萤火虫,让我们回到了快乐的童年,满足的甜蜜,在心中油然升起。

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