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尼泊尔人聊中印:常对“强势兄长”心存警惕
2017-09-13 07:46:31 中国青年网
尼泊尔街边,旅行社的中文招牌。范凌志摄
加德满都泰米尔区,一家中餐馆楼下的街景。崔萌摄
从“世外桃源”不丹来到尼泊尔,最直观的感受便是这里显得“烟火气”十足,也更为“开放”。刚下飞机,《环球时报》记者就在出关通道上看到一幅“中国商品市场,距离加德满都150公里”的落地广告;走出机场,三一重工的巨型广告牌赫然出现在眼前。这样醒目的“中国元素”在不丹基本见不到。在此前中印洞朗对峙的敏感时期,不丹和尼泊尔频频被提及。前者能沉默就沉默,后者却时常发出声音:尼泊尔政府表示持中立立场;两大民间机构促印度撤军;当地电视台组织专题讨论,在场专家力挺中国。显然,虽同处喜马拉雅山脉南麓,都被认为是印度的“势力范围”,但尼泊尔接近甚至拥抱中国的渴望要比不丹强烈得多。在加德满都走访时,记者经常感受到尼泊尔人对中国的好感。尼泊尔前总理奥利接受《环球时报》记者专访时表示,无论什么时候,“尼泊尔都是中国人的朋友”。
出租车司机:街上的乞丐是印度人
“在加德满都经商的中国人大概有二三百人。”8月的尼泊尔正值炎热的雨季,山东汉子王云鹏坐在餐馆吹着风扇告诉《环球时报》记者,“大多数人从事餐饮、外贸和旅游”。2008年到加德满都打拼的王云鹏,如今在游客必去的泰米尔区经营“嘉麟阁”饺子馆。这家餐馆凭借正宗的口味和老板仗义好客的性格在当地已小有名气。《环球时报》记者此行的落脚处就是这里。
饺子馆位于一个丁字路口旁,在一栋建筑的二层。向外望去,狭窄街道上空杂乱的电线纷繁交错,为两侧低矮破旧的小楼输送着不稳定的电力。小楼旁边有大小不一的旅行社招牌,大部分都密密麻麻地写着中文:“最便宜的博卡拉机票”,“中国朋友免费咨询,送地图”……店主们坐在狭小柜台后面,机敏地捕捉每个路过游客的目光。一旦发现目标,一番中英尼三国语言夹杂的尼泊尔式推介是少不了的。
泰米尔区的街道和中国胡同的宽窄差不多,但体形小巧的“奥拓”出租车仍能在坑洼的路上穿梭自如,招手即停。司机永远不打表,如果看出你是游客,比正常价格翻一倍的价钱就是他们的“底价”;如果你坚持给他们正常价,他们不会生气,反而会笑嘻嘻地摇头,那意思是:“好吧,被你识破了。”
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