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美媒:在中国,麦当劳食品已代表着廉价和乏味

2017-08-15 08:26:42   中国经济网

美国thestreet网站8月13日文章,原题:在中国,麦当劳的食品意味着廉价和乏味,这是个特大号问题 1990年10月8日,当中国大陆首家麦当劳店在深圳开业时,这家约有460个座位的门店迎来4万多名迫不及待品尝美国快餐的食客。上世纪90年代至21世纪最初10年,与朋友在麦当劳进餐和逗留曾被视为中国大陆年轻人的时尚生活方式选项。中国的“70后”和“80后”经常将麦当劳当作其首次约会的场所。

当时间快进到2017年,对中国的大多数城市居民来说,麦当劳的“巨无霸”汉堡已不再是充满异国情调的美食,在经济、社会和生活方式都经历巨变的中国,麦当劳早已不是理想的约会场所。“在我们深圳青少年看来,麦当劳意味着廉价和快餐”,15岁女孩林黛(音)说,“我没感觉它有何特别之处。”

中国与日俱增的成本也使麦当劳经营压力剧增。当麦当劳在北京的首家门店开业时,它提供的350元平均月薪曾极具吸引力。但如今北京市的饭店为女服务员提供的最低月薪约为3500元。面临消费者口味迅速变化以及不断上涨的租金和人工成本,麦当劳已将其在中国内地和香港的52%控股权出售给中国国企,从而将被广泛视为美国文化象征的麦当劳“金色拱门”变为一项中国“国有资产”。

在中国京沪穗深等人均GDP已与发达国家处于相同水平的一线城市,消费者正迅速升级其消费方式也更注重健康。业内人士表示,对中国城市居民来说,麦当劳越来越被视为一种快速且便宜的食品。比起一顿麦当劳,他们更倾向于一杯星巴克咖啡或者30元一杯的奶茶,而他们对“巨无霸”的态度变化无异于观察中国迅速变化的商业版图的缩影。(作者何惠凤[音],王会聪译)

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