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媒体:中国的干部为什么都爱穿黑夹克?

2017-05-06 18:18:19   新华每日电讯

这是为什么呢?还得从毛主席说起。

毛主席在不同时期的穿着也有所不同,学生时代选择长衫,革命时期穿过军装和中山装,后期经常穿着中山装,不管怎么变,他都喜爱穿宽松款的衣服。

到了1956年,苏联的“反斯大林报告”引起了毛主席的不安,他意识到需要走中国特色的道路,因而也就需要重新打造领导人的形象。他希望穿着新款式的衣服,出现在即将召开的党代会上。

于是,北京就从上海找来了红帮裁缝给领导人定制服装。红帮裁缝原为奉帮裁缝,特指浙江宁波奉化籍的裁缝,他们的制衣风格恰恰就是宽松。

中国第一本系统讲述西服剪裁理论的专著《西服裁剪指南》,就是出自去日本学艺20年之久的红帮裁缝顾天云之手。书中介绍的服装裁剪方法基本就是西方的裁剪方法。

不过顾天云还是结合了中国人的实际情况,把整个衣身放宽,下摆加大,适应中国人着装宽松的习惯。

顾天云

这跟毛主席的穿衣习惯恰恰吻合,最后田阿桐师傅为毛主席量身特制了一身宽松的毛装。后来红帮裁缝专门给中国的领导们做衣服,宽松的风格也就保留了下来。

中国领导穿的西服大都宽松可能还有另外一个原因。

从70年代开始,中国和西方关系缓和,出访的官员逐渐增多。外交部的出访官员都会被要求备上西装,放在行李箱里。可能是为了方便直接套在里边的衣服上,他们的西装普遍都非常宽大。

据观摩过外交部礼宾司《外交官着装规范》的裁缝熊可嘉回忆,外交部要求出访官员西服必须宽大,标准是西服里面能穿两件毛衣,一条保暖裤,一条毛裤。

而这种有中国特色的大码西服一直延续到了现在。

责任编辑:孙启浩 CN037
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