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服装业华丽转身后面临渠道尴尬

2017-09-08 07:26:54   中国经济网

来自深圳市服装行业协会的数据显示,2016年深圳服装业实现产值超2000亿元,有服装企业2800余家,从业人员20多万人,自有服装品牌近2000个(较知名的品牌200多个),在大城市一类商场的市场占有率达60%以上。自主品牌产品产值由20世纪90年代初的不足5%上升到目前的80%,涌现出玛丝菲尔(Marisfrolg)、影儿(YINER)、歌力思(ELLASSAY)、马天奴、杰西(JESSIE)、艺之卉(EACHWAY)、丽琪(LIZZY)、纳帕佳(La pargay)、娜尔思(NAERSI)、粉蓝衣橱(BBLLUUEE)、季候风(SEASON WIND)、卡尔丹顿(KALTENDIN)、梵思诺(VERSINO)、淑女屋、吉祥斋等一批知名品牌。

如今,深圳服装业已不再仅是制造业,而是向产业链的上游攀登,迈入了文化创意产业。文化创意产业与高新技术产业、现代物流业、金融业并列为深圳四大支柱产业。《深圳文化创意产业振兴发展政策》明确将服装设计、品牌策划与营销列为重点发展行业。

深圳市服装行业协会副秘书长郑园杰说,为应对国际市场的严峻挑战,深圳服装行业越来越重视“创新”“创意”,目前,75%以上的深圳服装企业将销售额的5%至15%作为设计、创新、研发经费。深圳服装业正努力实现由劳动密集向技术密集、人才密集、知识密集的转型升级,向“品牌总部经济”和“都市经济”的时尚创意产业方向发展。

从中低端到中高端寻找国际快消品牌冲击下的蓝海

如今,大城市一类商场里那些少则千元、动则上万的女装许多是来自深圳的品牌。

沈永芳告诉记者,深圳服装业在品牌化之初就瞄准了中高端客群。转型前,深圳服装厂大多代工欧美高端品牌,拥有当时国内较先进的生产设备和较高的加工水平,积淀了很多做中高端服装的技术、面料和设计资源,具有成熟的产业基础。而且,“当时走中高端路线,也有利于与广州、东莞等地差异化竞争。”

实际上,一些深圳服装品牌也曾尝试过中低端定位,但效果不如预期。马天奴曾在2001年推出ADA这个定价更为亲民的品牌,但业绩不佳。吴穗平说:“虽然那时国际快消品牌还没进入市场,但这个类别的门槛比较低,有大量的竞争者。一窝蜂是最累的,以量取胜不是我们的强项,我们不能这么无序地血拼,需要赶快找蓝海。”

2006年吴穗平关掉了ADA这个品牌,并进一步提高了马天奴的定位,提价60%。随后又推出了定位更为高端、奢华的阿丹娜(La Danum)。

而如今,在国际快消品牌大举进入中国后,新品牌要走定位中低端的快消之路就更难了。

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