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在红色中洲 吃的都是“乡愁”

2017-09-01 06:31:06   中国青年网

毛豆腐制作最重要的是菌种要纯。专门用于发酵毛豆腐的木盒子经过一次次的使用,已经蕴藏了大量的毛豆腐菌种。豆腐被片成一厘米厚度的方片,平摊在木盒子里的架子上,剩下的就是耐心等待了。天气热的时候发酵时间要短些,天气冷则长些,一般都在三五天。

当然,豆腐经过霉变有可能会变质,我们可通过“一看二嗅三掰”的方法来判断:首先看毛豆腐的毛是否变黑,如果变黑则不正常;其次闻豆腐表面是否有刺鼻味道,如果刺鼻则是加入氨水;另外,掰开豆腐看一看,里面是否较白,如果色差大则质量不过关。

中洲土辣酱:妈妈的味道

再过几日,天再凉一些,妈妈们就要开始剁辣酱做辣酱了。中洲镇最边远的山坳坳里——中洲镇枫林坞村的土辣酱,可是出了名的,之前还吸引了中央电视台《美丽家园》栏目组,来这里拍摄最地道的土辣酱制作工艺。

枫林坞村地处淳安西面的深山,毗邻江西、安徽。因此饮食习惯融合浙徽两派,自古口味偏辛辣,尤其冬季,物产稀少,驱寒解馋,土辣酱便成了家家户户都要制作的农家美味。

而且,由于这里处于山林之间,风景秀丽,空气清新,种植出的农产品质量非常高,特别是自家种的大豆圆润饱满,红辣椒皮薄肉厚。再配上千岛湖源头山泉活水,这样做出的土辣酱,香辣醇厚,又不失味觉本真,实乃珍品,不得不说央视真会找地方。

做酱很讲究,要做得好吃也不容易。为了做好这坛酱,枫林坞村的邵月英还把已经70多岁的邻居陈红英找来了。

两人坐在老屋的堂前切着辣椒、压着大蒜,然后把切好的辣椒、生姜、大蒜、晒好的豆瓣,配以秘制佐料,在陶制大缸中搅拌均匀,待入味之后,装瓶入坛,再放置一段时间,美味的土辣酱就出炉了。一开坛的土辣酱,色泽鲜艳,酱香四溢,惹得人口水直流。

土辣酱是中洲推向外地市场的特色产品之一,也是淳安在外游子最浓情的乡愁。

中洲石斑鱼:儿时的回味

家门口的那条清澈的小溪,儿时抓鱼嬉戏的场景,一定是每个人最美好的家乡记忆。

中洲镇厦山村有一条千岛湖最大的支流——武强溪,这些年得益于“五水共治”,这条穿村而过的溪水,依旧还是很多人儿时那条清澈的小溪,小溪里依旧还有很多自由自在畅游的石斑鱼。

武强溪里的石斑鱼,由于水质好,味道比别的溪中的鱼更为鲜美。“一般大的石斑鱼,有3两左右一条,钓或者自己抓石斑鱼的只需要30元/斤,第二斤45元,这个市场价最少60元,所以还是很实惠的。”承包河道的项良武说道。

这么好的水,育着这么好吃的鱼,为了让更多的乡亲们吃到自家门口的石斑鱼,厦山村村两委给全村每户人家发福利——每户100元的“鱼票”。“鱼票”也是厦山村村两委制作的,类似于当年的“粮票”,老人家拿在手里,尤其熟悉和感动。

据了解,这几年村里每年用在禁渔上的管理费都有2万多元,特别是溪里的鱼多起来后,管理难度就更大了,总是会被偷钓甚至还有毒鱼现象,为此厦山村将归属厦山村约5公里长的河道承包出去,再从承包费中取出一部分,作为回馈村民的福利,让不管是老的还是小的,都能尝到自家门口鲜美的石斑鱼。

像这样的小小的石斑鱼,红烧是最常见也是最好吃的一种做法。厦山村周围的民宿都可以做出最地道好吃的石斑鱼,绝对又辣又鲜。

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