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爱好者感叹33万起步价登不起珠峰 2015年无登顶

2016-01-28 08:46:32   广州日报

“攀登珠峰之路是用票子铺成的。”卢超笑言。

经营着一家户外运动俱乐部、长期从事登山运动的王林岳曾登顶珠峰。他说,这些年来,登珠峰热直接拉高了攀登珠峰的价格。“你给不起这个价钱,有人给得起。”通常而言,从北坡登顶,要比南坡登顶难度更大。北坡寒冷多风,即便在四五月份,最大风力也能达到3~4级,且总体路程比南坡要长,且北坡裸露岩石的攀登有技术难度。而南坡的难度主要在通过昆布冰川的时候。

天价登山费成“拦路虎”

每年数十人偷登珠峰

鲁达表示,从2000年到2010年,珠峰每年登顶人数,从每年的20多人增加到200人。从2013年又开始回落,下降到50人以下。主要原因,一方面是国家对攀登珠峰的管理越来越严格,所有攀登珠峰的人,必须由当地登山协会推荐过来,经西藏登山协会审核后,最终由国家体育总局批准。

由于尼泊尔南坡近年来频发山难事故,当地的夏尔巴向导要求购买更贵的保险。在庞大的市场需求下,登珠峰价格上涨很正常。“将来就算涨到50万元也不出奇。”

王林岳表示,商业化攀登珠峰价格越来越高,普通登山者根本负担不起,而国内登山爱好者众多,很多人为了攀登珠峰,要准备5~8年时间,主要是攒钱。一些山友,没有固定收入,却有一颗想征服珠峰的心,唯一的出路就是偷登。

登顶“世界之巅”,成了很多山友难以抑制的诱惑。几乎在每年的非登山季,珠峰地区都有一批偷登者,今年也不例外。这也成为圣山公司非常头疼的事情。作为全国唯一一家有资质组织攀登珠峰的公司,他们经常还要负责对这些偷登者的救援工作。近期,该公司就发现部分偷登者,并将其劝回。

所谓偷登,就是没有经过西藏登山协会(下称登协)的许可,自己组织向导和协作人员攀登珠峰。很多资深山友都有偷登的经历。已故著名登山家杨春风2007年、2009年分别登顶珠峰,成为国内唯一一位两次登顶珠峰的民间登山者,而这其中一次,就是偷登。

尽管如此,偷登每年都在发生。一些曾经登顶珠峰的资深山友,以十多万元的价格,自己寻找向导,购买氧气等保障物资,找来信得过他的山友偷登。“每年都有数十人偷登,不可能每个偷登的人都能被发现。”鲁达说,有一次,他发现一名由13人组成的偷登队伍,其中一登山者已出现轻微肺水肿,两根手指已经坏死,鲁达赶紧责令这个团队下山。“如果我不阻止他们,他们都会死在山上。”

偷登者常殒命

珠峰上百具遗体难处理

而偷登,很有可能命丧雪山。在珠峰上,埋葬着很多这样的偷登者。没有人知道他们的名字,其家人都不知道亲人已葬身雪域高原。

在王林岳看来,珠峰是可以偶遇尸体几率最高的山峰,因为遗体太多了。“在刺眼的雪光中,有时你好像看到前面一个人躺在地上,甚至还穿着衣服,他却一动不动,这是登山者的遗体。”他说,在攀山中看到遗体,攀登者都不会吃惊。

而珠峰上的遗体,也成了攀登者的路标。攀登过程中,最有名的路标,是一个被称为“绿靴子”的1996年丧生的印度登山者泽旺·帕勒哲(TsewangPaljor)。20年间,他的遗体一直停留在登顶者经过的路上。当雪层较薄时,攀登者不得不从他的前腿上跨过,前往峰顶。

责任编辑:张晓伟 CN042
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