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复兴之美汉服归来 谁在传承传统服饰文化?

2018-04-19 08:36:14    中国网

现象

传统服饰怎么兴起的?

上海APEC是“触发点”

中国人民大学社会学博士杨娜对汉服研究已有数年,并著有《汉服归来》一书,据她介绍,国内汉服运动的兴起,大约是从2001年开始的,当年的上海APEC会议,正是汉服复兴的一个“触发点”。

按照APEC会议的传统,东道主国会提供一身传统的民族服饰供外宾穿着,例如1996年菲律宾的“巴隆他加禄”、2005年韩国的“图鲁马吉”等,与会领导人一起合影留念,这是APEC会议的亮点之一。

2001年的APEC会议闭幕后,各国领导人穿着“唐装”在上海黄浦江畔合影的照片,刊登在当年世界各大报刊上,登上国内中小学的课本,“唐装”也一度成为年度热词。

争议也由此而起,在当时并不普及的网络上,有网友质疑,“唐装”虽然有个“唐”字,其实是由清代的马褂衍生而成,甚至是国外华人居住的“唐人街”中的唐人所穿服饰,并不能代表中华民族的传统服饰。

自此,网络上对于“中国传统民族服装到底是什么”的讨论层出不穷,旗袍、马褂、中山装等带有一些中国特色的服饰都被提出探讨,宽袍大袖的“汉服”也被人提出而进入公众视野。

随着电脑和网络的逐步普及,热爱中华民族服饰的网友们开始以网络为平台,一起“发帖”交流。据杨娜介绍,2003年元旦,网友建立了一个独立的网络平台,随后正式命名为“汉网论坛”,网友在这个平台上进行民族文化和服饰的讨论,发表原创性文章,该网站为中华民族服饰搭建了交流和传播的平台。

汉服重新亮相街头

复兴传统服装不是一件简单的事情,首先要考虑的问题就是“汉服究竟什么样?”“如何获得一件汉服”。2003年开始,网友纷纷开始自己动手制作,据杨娜介绍,一位来自澳大利亚的华裔青年自己“复原”了一套汉服并拍照发至汉网,一位来自江苏的网友也根据清代记载古代制度名物的《乡党图考》自制了一件汉服。

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