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记者手记:航行在世界最北航道上——穿越“冰上丝绸之路”见闻

2017-09-22 11:07:43   新华网

北极东北航道并不只有一条航线。在不同的北冰洋边缘海之间,有不同的海峡和水域可以通航。比如,“天健”轮12日与“天乐”轮相遇后,原本还有机会与同样由欧洲开出的“天福”轮相遇,但由于同一航道上的这两艘货轮选择了不同的海峡,因而没能“相会”。

即使考虑到不同航线的因素,这一航道上的商船总量也不算多。不过,全球气候变暖、海冰加速消融等因素,使得近年来选择这条航道的商船开始增多。俄罗斯北极物流中心数据显示,2016年经由北极东北航道航行的船舶共297艘,同比增长35%。

 天气——恶劣多变

记者对北极航道的恶劣天气早有所闻。海雾、大风大浪和雨雪天气也是北极东北航道通航时段有限的重要因素。

北极天气以雨雪和雾天为主,“变化多端”是记者在航行中的深刻感受。一会儿雾、一会儿雨、一会儿雪、一会儿是艳阳天,有时几分钟之内便完成这几种天气的变化。“太阳雨”“太阳雪”“太阳雾”,是在北极东北航道航行时最容易遇到的天气现象。

多变的天气,给船员们增添了不少压力。低温、大风、雨雪,使得船员们夏天在甲板上干活也得穿棉衣棉鞋。

不过,在北极航行,也有“从天而降”的惊喜,那就是美不可言的极光。“天健”轮航行在东西伯利亚海和巴伦支海时,都曾遇到灿烂美丽的北极光,带状、弧状、放射状,应有尽有,绮丽无比。

 动物——鱼群众多

现在将北极航道称为“黄金水道”还为时过早,北极“黄金渔场”的名号则早已存在,尤其是巴伦支海,长期以来都是著名渔场。

海洋学者告诉记者,为了对抗冰冷的海水,北冰洋的鱼在血液中含有防冻蛋白质,可使血液在零度以下也不凝固,从而不会被冰冷海水冻伤。

北极东北航道途经的“黄金渔场”,除了受大西洋暖流影响的巴伦支海之外,受太平洋海水影响的楚科奇海鱼群也不少。进入白令海峡前,记者看到十几艘大型捕鱼船在海上作业。在白令海峡,记者多次看到鲸鱼和海象,其中海象有十几群,多的一群有几十头。进入楚科奇海后,又看到数不清的鸟群和成群的鲸鱼,同样显示这里鱼群众多。

渔民们捕获的一些海产品,会经过苏伊士运河等传统航线运到中国的一些港口。北极东北航道未来或许会成为一条高性价比的商业航路,以后也许会有更多的北极海产品沿着这条航道来到中国。

在东西伯利亚海,记者两次近距离看到海象。有一次,一大一小两头海象出现在船的右侧,与船“擦肩而过”后,两只海象还一面游、一面回头张望。

随着航行在北极的轮船越来越多,人们同样期待,北极的环境依然保持良好,动物们依然能在它们的天地里自在生活。

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