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十大经典——未折翼的百年灵腕表

2018-04-10 09:15:21   今日头条:毒师玩表

毒师在提笔写这篇文章时,心情是复杂的。对百年灵的感情从一开始的厌恶到喜爱再到沉迷,玩过百年灵或者认识百年灵的表友都知道,其款式风格彪悍,壳型硬朗,设计指示性强,品牌血性中军表风格非常强

短短时间内毒师已经纳入数只百年灵,玩的不亦乐乎,而从2017年7月得知百年灵易主后不禁惋惜,作为1884年成立独立制表商的Breitling,历经五代掌门人最终还是易主给一家私募公司

为什么一个产品优秀的品牌还是经不起市场考验?个人觉得百的产品线规划和市场推广上存着较大问题,而新上任的前万国CEO乔治科恩(Georges Kern)也对其针对性的大改革。无论是在外观还是尺寸上都更迎合市场需求,但其logo的改变让毒师大失所望

原有的飞鹰翅膀logo将全部陆续取消,采用B取而代之,但如果说百年灵的logo历史,Blogo首次出现在1950的计时原型中,而带翅膀的Blogo反而是后来70年代末演进而来用在大部分的款式上(除了越洋,超级海洋文化和蒙柏朗等文艺复古系列还是继续使用Blogo)

采用Blogo的百年灵也开始大力改变形象,2018年推出航空计时8系列为原型的一系列简约风格更加亲民,去繁为简的设计与原本硬朗的百大不相符

对于百的新产品新面目,今天暂且不说,留待以后新品上市后再来测评

飞翔logo才是心中那颗不羁放纵的灵魂

在此再次缅怀那翱翔的飞鹰百年灵

这里毒师和百友粉丝们推荐近五年(2012-2017)十款经典带翅膀的款式,仅仅代表个人观点,感谢@熊猫饲养员如有不足之处欢迎提出探讨,排名不分先后:

NAVITIMER 01

CHRONOMAT

SUPEROCEAN Ⅱ

AVENGER Ⅱ GMT

AVENGER SEAWOLF

AVENGER Ⅱ BLACKBIRD

GALACTIC

COLT AUTOMATIC

COLT CHRONOGRAPH

AVEROSPACE EVO

这十位百年灵勇士个个精壮强悍,下面由毒师一个个来简单说明下上榜原因:

NAVITIMER 01 (航空计时01腕表)

CHRONOMAT (终极计时腕表)

SUPEROCEAN Ⅱ(超级海洋二代)

百年灵最经典的王牌飞行员,N01也是众多飞行员中识别度最高的一款。其独特的滑尺外圈,黑白经典撞色盘面,密集的刻度和数字能提供精准数据给予翱翔蓝天的你,让你专心享受三千尺高空的畅快

机芯:B01自产机芯

表经:43MM

表厚:14.25MM

防水:30M

推荐指数五颗星

终极计时系列与王牌飞行员同样搭载了09年百年灵自发研制的B01机芯,该枚机芯采用高级计时之称的垂直离合结构与导轮柱装置,70小时动力都是其亮点;终极计时不同之处在于外圈四角有凸出金属,把头螺纹设计,外观设计简洁更加悠闲,罗马字和中心竖纹盘面俞显复古味道

机芯:B01自产机芯

表经:44MM

表厚:16.95MM

防水:500M

推荐指数四颗星

超级海洋系列自1957年到现在一直百年灵的潜水主打款式,其灵活多变的尺寸与防水深度成正比,44MM对应1000米,42MM对应500米,36MM对应200米;或许他的尺寸大小并不讨喜,但他能保证极端环境下提供准确的走时,带给你舒心的享受

机芯:17型机芯

表经:36/42/44MM

表厚:11.25/13.3/14.2MM

防水:200/500/1000M

推荐指数三颗星

AVENGER Ⅱ GMT

AVENGER SEAWOLF (复仇者深潜海狼)

复仇者系列当属硬汉专属,每只复仇者其标志性设计:大号手雷把头,外圈四枚凸起刻度显示,带着手套一样能轻易调节使用;而该型号也是百年灵极少数使用ETA2892机芯(百年灵32型机芯)加两地时组件,使得该表厚度上更加纤薄舒适 (2824为4.6mm,2892是3.6mm)

机芯:32型机芯

表经:43MM

表厚:12.2MM

防水:300M

推荐指数四颗星

如果说超级海洋还不能满足你对极限的要求,可以考虑最强深度的海狼,其巨大的铠甲与钛金属搭配最合适,而抢眼的亮黄色也让该表成为最佳的独领风骚代表作

机芯:17型机芯

表经:45MM

表厚:18.4MM

防水:3000M

推荐指数三颗星

银河系列相对而言主要针对女性为主,款式相对简约,其经典大日历/双历设计方便使用,pilot飞行员表链由120个部件构成,斜纹五珠设计舒适时尚,动感十足(在18年银河男款系列全部停止,虽然该系列并不受欢迎,大日历设计和中性设计还是留下深刻印象)

机芯:49型机芯

表经:41MM

表厚:14MM

防水:300M

推荐指数两颗星

AVENGER Ⅱ BLACKBIRD (复仇者黑鸟侦察机)

GALACTIC (银河)

黑鸟凭借独特的高强度碳化处理黑色涂层,使得外壳营造出劲酷硬朗的哑光效果,黑化版的百年灵与复古夜光结合很吻合,怎一个帅字可以表达;再使用军用级别的Military纤维带,it's very cool

机芯:17型机芯

表经:44/48MM

表厚:12.7/14.2MM

防水:200/300M

推荐指数四颗星

AVEROSPACE EVO (航空多功能进化)百年灵SuperQuart超级石英机芯采用最先进技术,配备温度传感器,自动调节走时,比普通石英精准十倍,最大年误差仅为10-15秒;其中间单把头就能操作多种功能设计(倒数计时器,第二时区显示,闹响,三问报时);同属于专业系列的百年灵EMERGENCY求援系列更是搭载双频危急发射器,让你在危险关头拔开把头(下方大把头)就能发射求救信号等待救援

机芯:79型/B55型机芯

表经:43/46MM

表厚:10.8/15.25MM

防水:100M

推荐指数三颗星

COLT AUTOMATIC (挑战者自动机械)

COLT CHRONOGRAPH (挑战者自动计时腕表)

挑战者作为百年灵入门级,做工和外观上极具性价比,特别是这只41MM正是毒师黄金尺寸,日常工具表的首荐之一;可以看到每只百年灵盘面通透性超强,双面镀膜防炫蓝宝石镜面功不可没,其涂层工艺当属一流

机芯:17型机芯

表经:41/44MM

表厚:10.7/11.25MM

防水:200M

推荐指数四颗星

在没有自产机芯之前,ETA7750和ETA2824一直是百年灵最常见的机芯,耐用走时稳定,经过百年灵自己深度打磨和更换零件,每只百年灵都经过天文台走时认证级别,价格实惠何须盲目追求自产?

机芯:13型机芯

表经:44MM

表厚:14.7MM

防水:200M

推荐指数四颗星

PROFESSIONAL (专业系列)

毒师介绍的这十款手表覆盖了当今百年灵的带有翅膀款式,还有如超级海洋文化,越洋两个系列没有描述,当然也有很多经典款式如超复计时,使用热塑性塑料材质的飓风,带蓝牙的EROSPACE B55等等,实在喜欢的太多,但位置就这么多,无论怎么选肯定不能全部带上。结果还是留最有纪念意义的英雄代表们,拥有其独行的特色风格百年灵经过百年后最终还是走上了市场之路

你们都是未折翼的百年灵,现在只能买少见少了

对于新标的推行势在必行,可以看出百年灵这次改革变化很大,那粉丝们和新客户能否接受,毒师看来还是非常大的未知数,希望乔治科恩能把百年灵走向更高更广的天空

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