老北京冬日街头美食之“栗子味儿的烤白薯”

2018-12-27 09:33:51    北京日报

又到了捧起热乎乎烤白薯的日子了,老北京冬日街头美食,莫过于糖炒栗子、烤白薯和冰糖葫芦了。一过立冬,街上卖烤白薯的就多了起来,并伴着一阵阵的吆喝声:“栗子味儿的!”“来块儿热乎的!”

白薯,本称番薯,不同地区又有红薯、甘薯、金薯、红苕、地瓜之称,原产于美洲,1492年哥伦布把它带入欧洲,经葡萄牙人传入非洲,并由太平洋群岛传入亚洲,而传入我国是在明朝万历年间。清陈世元《金薯传习录》中援引《采录闽侯合志》记载:“按番薯种出海外吕宋。明万历年间闽人陈振龙贸易其地,得藤苗及栽种之法入中国。”陈振龙是福建长乐人,明万历年间到吕宋(今菲律宾),见到白薯,遂引种回国,因此被誉为中国的“甘薯之父”。

北京是何时开始种植白薯的呢?据《北京种植业志》记载:“清代雍正八年(1730年),福建海关官吏将白薯呈送进京,只在圆明园内栽种,作为皇室御用品,未能推广。清乾隆十四年(1749年),新任直隶总督方观承将白薯传至直隶等地。乾隆二十二年(1757年),陈云、陈树(陈振龙五世孙陈世元的儿子)两兄弟将白薯引到朝阳门至通州一带种植……因而逐步扩大种植,一度成为北京地区重要粮食作物。”而《北京农业史话》则称:“雍正八年四月二十七,福建海关监督谆泰恭进番薯(白薯)六桶。乾隆二十二年(1757年),陈氏兄弟邀同乡农友将白薯由胶州运种到京师农郊,传授耕农种植、藏藤诸法。三兄弟所到之处,白薯繁植,百姓无不受益而称颂不已。”由此可见,白薯在北京地区的种植只有二百多年的历史。

中医视白薯为良药,有预防肠道疾病等功效。清代医学家赵学敏的《本草纲目拾遗》中称其“性平味甘无毒,入脾、肾二经。能凉血活血,益气生津解渴止血,宽肠胃通便秘,产妇最宜。”《金薯传习录》则称白薯有六种药用价值,适时食用能使人“长寿少疾”。

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