年夜饭之广东盆菜:“盆满钵满”吃一个幸福满溢

2019-01-29 16:14:45    中华网文化

对于中国人来说,一年之中所有节日里,辞旧迎新的春节算是最大,每逢春节来临,漂泊在外的游子们心中最盼的便是归家,烹一桌味美年饭,享一家喜庆团圆。

年饭几乎聚集了一整年的家长里短、嘘寒问暖,起筷、落筷,一杯一箸间都是化不开的“团圆味”。作为除夕夜的主角,年夜饭甚至从几天前便开始计划和准备,饭桌上的每一道菜,都颇为讲究,而主菜,作为主角中的主角,更是要花上不少功夫,在广东,能担此大任的非盆菜莫属。

在广东,但凡盆菜出场,一定是大场面,新居入伙、祠堂开光、新年点灯……诸此等等,且常常是举村进行盆菜宴。一盆盆菜,在每家每户的期许中,经过煎炸煮烧焖卤炒,端上餐桌,吃的不仅是味道,终极目标是“和”。味和人也和,一家人齐齐整整,吃上盆满钵满、团团圆圆的盆菜,边吃边讲着新一年的好意头,这才是过年标配。

年夜饭之广东盆菜:“盆满钵满”吃一个幸福满溢

对于盆菜的起源,众说纷纭,流传最广的一个据传是南宋末年,战时的军队逃难至东莞县乌纱以及香港新界锦田一带的围村时,受到了当地居民的款待,他们用仅存的猪肉、萝卜,加上现捕的鱼,虾造饭,但因一时间找不到足够的碗碟,只好用木面盆盛菜,于是有了今天盆菜的原型。

现如今的盆菜,当然不能仅限于一些常见物料,所谓的讲究那一定是各品类并蓄、色香味俱全。比如客家焖猪肉,它是盆菜的中流砥柱,且因为量大,往往需要一天的准备时间。猪肉切成大小均匀的块,香料炒香后入锅,蒜头、姜、葱、南乳等佐料提味,一锅焖足40分钟。出锅成品软滑甘香,有着“家肥屋润”的好意头。

鲍鱼是盆菜之魂,与鸡煨煮出汤汁后,夹出来放在盆菜最顶端的显眼位置,肉质够厚,吃下沉甸甸的收获,寓意“年年有余”。油焖冬菇是盆菜里的点睛之笔,油焖之后,菇香四溢,不失韧劲,瞬间精彩夺目有着“东成西就”的意思。

年夜饭之广东盆菜:“盆满钵满”吃一个幸福满溢

这些材料最少也有8样,分作6层,依次码放,在装盆前,底下得先垫一块竹篦,防止糊锅。底下的大体都是耐煮的素菜类,如萝卜、白菜、支竹、莲藕等,以便上桌之后继续用小火炖,这些素菜有吸收汤汁味道的功能,能将上层荤类煮出来的汁水稳稳吸收,使自身的滋味由素寡变浓郁,不浪费一点一滴的精华。

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