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大卫·鲍伊:他走了,留下时尚这具形骸

2016-01-18 09:08:59   北京青年报

引领风尚:眼前空无一物身后千军万马

大卫·鲍伊尝到了出名的甜头,这个年轻人青涩的眼神变得坦荡,甚至浪荡起来。很快他就出了第三张专辑《TheManWhoSoldTheWorld》,封面上大卫·鲍伊留着波浪长发,穿着大花裙子、高跟靴子倚靠在床上,胸前仅有两粒扣,活像个风尘女子。这让所有人疯狂了,一些人找到了偶像,另一些人找到了攻击的对象,总之,这个二十三岁的年轻人真正火了。他做的每一件事都成为新闻,每一句废话都有人奉为圣旨,他的言行越怪诞不羁,就有人越崇拜他,当然也有人更厌恶他——但那又如何呢?任何事都没办法阻止这个年轻人将时髦定义成放荡、颓废、性别模糊,哪怕时至今日我们都能从父辈的老照片中发现他们烫了长头发的惊人模样。

那个时候的他有了第一段婚姻,我们概念中的大卫·鲍伊一定程度上是这个女人塑造的:早期的造型带着嬉皮风,长衣长衫长头发,收腰裤、厚底鞋、银饰和烟,这个纤弱又蓬发的年轻人,总是垂着眼皮,像个偷穿了别人衣服的坏女孩。

脱轨先锋:背后只有风在追

率领着时尚军队的大卫·鲍伊仿佛以为自己有了特权:做什么都是对的,做什么都是好的。于是1972年初,他虚拟出了一个绮丽人物ZiggyStardust,这之后的两年内大卫·鲍伊以这个太空幻想生物的身份登台演出。这是个外形异常夸张的形象:光溜溜的眉毛、黑粗的眼线、血红的炸毛头、彩色长指甲、超高跟鞋,配上紧身或者接近裸替的衣着——这让台下的观众疯狂了,这是大卫·鲍伊最高的一个高潮,这张《TheRiseandFallofZiggyStardustandtheSpidersfromMars》成为他公认的佳作,最后被滚石杂志评选为史上最佳唱片第35位。

Ziggy时代的大卫·鲍伊得到了全英国狂热崇拜,他成为了名副其实的超级巨星。关于其诡异的着装,他是这么回应的:“在台下做我自己的时候我是块木头,在台上做Ziggy的时候我又充满激情。这大概就是为什么我更愿意当Ziggy而不是自己。”

然而他玩脱轨了,1974年移居美国的时候他遭遇了第一轮可卡因危机,与此同时英国国内主流意见开始出现对他极端行为的异议,原披头士主唱约翰·列侬就说过:大卫做得不错,但他那些不过是抹了口红的摇滚。

后来的大卫·鲍伊渐渐“病入膏肓”。妆、饰越来越向精神分析学派挑衅,鞋底厚得像是预备穿满500年,一次穿的衣服颜色多到得分至少五次洗才能不串色。当然再后来他倒是越穿越少了,且越来越紧——没错,就是像体操服。

责任编辑:刘畅 CC002
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