十二章纹:古代帝王服饰上的神秘力量

2018-12-26 11:05:18    上海多棱镜网络

原标题:天子的十二章纹是什么?

在古代有一个传说,只要成为帝王,便会得到十二种神秘的自然力量,辅佐他成为至善至美至上的明君。后来,代表这十二种力量的图案,就被印在了帝王的衣服上,以“象其德也”,这些图案便是十二章纹。

十二章纹是什么

在出土的实物中,明定陵神宗皇帝朱翎钧的龙袍是最早的、带有“十二章纹”的实物。

十二章纹:古代帝王服饰上的神秘力量

▲神宗皇帝朱翎钧

这件“缂丝十二章纹衮服”出土时,衮服上带有绢制标签,上写“万历四十五年(1617年)……衮服”等字样。由此可知该衮服的确切年代为公元1617年。

十二章纹:古代帝王服饰上的神秘力量

▲定陵地宫

在这件衮服上,龙纹最突出,共有十二团龙,分别织于两肩和前后襟上。另外,两肩织日、月,背织星辰、山,两袖饰华虫。宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻等六种纹饰分别列于前后襟团龙两侧,共列十二章纹。

明代洪武十六年明文规定了章服之制,皇帝衮冕“玄衣黄裳,十二章,日、月、星辰、山、龙、华虫六章织于衣,宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻六章绣于裳”。

此衮服与明制符合,是不可多得的珍贵历史文物。衮服开棺后迅速氧化,出土时面料已呈深驼色,各色图案均有破损,但仍可见其概貌。

十二章纹:古代帝王服饰上的神秘力量

▲出土后的明定陵十二章纹衮服

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